Platinum Member TazMann Posted October 5, 2020 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 16 hours ago, spookie the aardvark said: Thanks TazMan again very good advice frome someone "Who has seen it. Done it. And got the Jeep to prove it" I was chatting to PDB on my thread about bumpers and stuff and he said the same as you about winch bumpers, so that idea has gone out the window Same with the idea of fitting a winch as if I am going to do any "off tarmac" stuff it will always be with someone else - who probably has a winch anyway. funny enough we are all thinking along the same lines as I am now considering getting a Front Recovery Shackle Tab Kit from HK Offroad, unless anyone knows places over here that do them, and like you said bolting them to the chassis rails. that is so much simpler than either a winch bumper or hidden winch plate. problem at the moment is getting the Curt front tow hitch to fit and allow me to steer as well - kinda a big issue. The engineering solution to being able to use the Curt tow hitch maybe to use the chassis rails to mont some 0.25 inch thick angled plate and cut and shorten the horizontal bar on the hitch to fit. Would then need a tube inside the tow hitch bar to strengthen and welded as well. The tow hitch could then bolt to the angled plate. I need to chat to my mechanic and see which way he wants to go, I would think just bolting in the Front Recovery Shackle Tab Kit would be simplest but means buying more parts. I still need to think about tyres and sizes, frosty fitted 245s to his and no cutting need and look really good but I read in the technical section I could fit 265/65/17 but I guess a bit of cutting requirded if I go that big Spookie, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-WJ-1999-2005-Recovery-Eye-hooks/124103761581?hash=item1ce5291ead:g:AzsAAOSwMtxXqzhZ These will bolt directly to the frame rails. These are what I have. I also as you know went with the full winch plate from the same person. Probably shouldn't post link but its my thread LOL and there are no partners of this forum that actually stock anything like this. I tend to go out with other folks as well, but even so I would always prefer to have my own means of self rescue. 16 hours ago, PDB said: If you can fit some good recovery hooks without a winchplate then great Spookie. They shouldnt be too expensive and you can sell the Curt front receiver without any further labour costs for engineering a fit? Everone said to me get a WJ not a WK. The WK seems a lot more straight forward, if you are looking to move to something else Taz. PDB, Not sure what I would move onto to be totally honest, the idea was always to move on to a JK or JL. However, I am not impressed with the engine allocation the JL had in the UK and to be honest the JK's are all getting quite high mileage now. The WJ is still on 60k ish so hardly anything. Might move away from the 4x4 scene all together, who knows. Just all thoughts going around at the moment. Still got the Jeep for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 16 hours ago, spookie the aardvark said: Thanks TazMan again very good advice frome someone "Who has seen it. Done it. And got the Jeep to prove it" I was chatting to PDB on my thread about bumpers and stuff and he said the same as you about winch bumpers, so that idea has gone out the window Same with the idea of fitting a winch as if I am going to do any "off tarmac" stuff it will always be with someone else - who probably has a winch anyway. funny enough we are all thinking along the same lines as I am now considering getting a Front Recovery Shackle Tab Kit from HK Offroad, unless anyone knows places over here that do them, and like you said bolting them to the chassis rails. that is so much simpler than either a winch bumper or hidden winch plate. problem at the moment is getting the Curt front tow hitch to fit and allow me to steer as well - kinda a big issue. The engineering solution to being able to use the Curt tow hitch maybe to use the chassis rails to mont some 0.25 inch thick angled plate and cut and shorten the horizontal bar on the hitch to fit. Would then need a tube inside the tow hitch bar to strengthen and welded as well. The tow hitch could then bolt to the angled plate. I need to chat to my mechanic and see which way he wants to go, I would think just bolting in the Front Recovery Shackle Tab Kit would be simplest but means buying more parts. I still need to think about tyres and sizes, frosty fitted 245s to his and no cutting need and look really good but I read in the technical section I could fit 265/65/17 but I guess a bit of cutting requirded if I go that big one small point, which may or may not be a problem for you, 245-70-17 wheel/ tire will just fit in the spare wheel recess in the back of your jeep, if you go for a 265, then it will not fit, and have to be in the car with you, or on the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 9 hours ago, TazMann said: Spookie, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-WJ-1999-2005-Recovery-Eye-hooks/124103761581?hash=item1ce5291ead:g:AzsAAOSwMtxXqzhZ These will bolt directly to the frame rails. These are what I have. I also as you know went with the full winch plate from the same person. Probably shouldn't post link but its my thread LOL and there are no partners of this forum that actually stock anything like this. I tend to go out with other folks as well, but even so I would always prefer to have my own means of self rescue. PDB, Not sure what I would move onto to be totally honest, the idea was always to move on to a JK or JL. However, I am not impressed with the engine allocation the JL had in the UK and to be honest the JK's are all getting quite high mileage now. The WJ is still on 60k ish so hardly anything. Might move away from the 4x4 scene all together, who knows. Just all thoughts going around at the moment. Still got the Jeep for now Thanks TazMann i will keep those recovery points in mind, my mechanic and myself are still kicking ideas around if we can find a way to make the front hitch work, which i would like, we will but i wont be kicking the ass out a dead horse if its not going to go (and let me steer) My opinion - for what it's worth - KEEP the JEEP, yours has about the same amount of milage on as mine - hardly broken in yet And you just know that if you get rid of it, a few weeks later lots of snow or floods and 4x4s will be the only thing moving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 10 hours ago, frosty said: one small point, which may or may not be a problem for you, 245-70-17 wheel/ tire will just fit in the spare wheel recess in the back of your jeep, if you go for a 265, then it will not fit, and have to be in the car with you, or on the roof. Thanks frosty, people have said that the bigger tyres dont fit the spare wheel well on the WGs, but if all else fails I can go all XJ and keep it in the boot - throw a blanket over it to hide it Not decided what size tyres to get yet. Some thought needed as soon as I get some time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member V Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 (edited) 44 minutes ago, spookie the aardvark said: Thanks frosty, people have said that the bigger tyres dont fit the spare wheel well on the WGs, but if all else fails I can go all XJ and keep it in the boot Depending on how big a tyre, there may be space to cut out your original spare wheel well and have a larger one fabricated to fit. This might be less cost than a swing away tyre carrier, certainly less operational hassle with the tailgate. A larger spare wheel well also keeps the centre of gravity low. Edited October 5, 2020 by V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 14 minutes ago, V said: Depending on how big a tyre, there may be space to cut out your original spare wheel well and have a larger one fabricated to fit. This might be less cost than a swing away tyre carrier, certainly less operational hassle with the tailgate. A larger spare wheel well also keeps the centre of gravity low. Thanks V good thinking I wouldnt go the route of a swing away tyre carrier but I would put happily put a bigger tyre in the boot if it wont fit in the well and use the well for storing other bits and pieces.There are tie down points in the boot that I could use to stap it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member V Posted October 5, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 5, 2020 A bigger wheel well doesn't need to be round, it can be a square box. For additional strength it would benefit from having the corners partitioned to make an octagonal space for the wheel. The corner voids can then be used for storage. If a diagonal cross made from square or rectangular section tube is welded inside or outside of the well floor it should be able to stop deformation or drumming of the large panel of the well floor. A fixture can be welded to the centre of the cross for a tie-down clamp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 on my WJ, the #8 fuse keeps blowing, has anyone on here got any ideas, it supplies power to the rear wash wipe, tailgate lift glass solenoid, footwell lights and map lights, any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 14 hours ago, frosty said: on my WJ, the #8 fuse keeps blowing, has anyone on here got any ideas, it supplies power to the rear wash wipe, tailgate lift glass solenoid, footwell lights and map lights, any help would be appreciated. Hi frosty, does the fuse blow when you use anything particular or does it blow as soon as you turn the ignition on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member V Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 I cannot remember if a WJ/WG has a corrugated rubber seal that contains the wiring to the tailgate, but if it does it is worth taking a look inside. On XJ's the wiring eventually breaks inside due to flexing the wiring in the hinge axis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 it does sound like it maybe a damaed positive letting the current get to the negative earth, just kinda depends when it blows Must admit I haven't looked at the wiring going into the tail gate on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 1 hour ago, spookie the aardvark said: Hi frosty, does the fuse blow when you use anything particular or does it blow as soon as you turn the ignition on? as soon as i put the fuse in, i blows, before i turn anything on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 1 hour ago, V said: I cannot remember if a WJ/WG has a corrugated rubber seal that contains the wiring to the tailgate, but if it does it is worth taking a look inside. On XJ's the wiring eventually breaks inside due to flexing the wiring in the hinge axis. hi Vince, yes it does, i agree, it is probably a good place to start. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, Jim said: Yes there are two rubber seals that contain the wiring so worth a check. Also found on the web that "the wiring: fuse 8 (15A) on the Junction Block (JB) is feeding the rear wiper motor, the EVIC and the dome lights. Then there is fuse 15 (50A) in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood, which is feeding fuse 8, but also several other fuses. So if fuse 15 was the problem, you would have several other systems without power as well (but still good to check)." thanks Jim, good info, i have noticed that the hand brake warning light doesn't come on. i will check what else is not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 http://www.wjjeeps.com/pdf/WJ_Ground_Write-up_JeepForum.com.pdf WJ Jeeps has a wealth of infomation so should translate to WG as well. This artical is about where to find all the ground connections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 http://www.wjjeeps.com/fuses.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 7, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 7, 2020 F8 15 Amp Lt. Blue - Overhead console, rear wiper, IP lights, rear flipper glass solenoid, power locks Are all the bold items not working at the moment frosty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 8, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 8, 2020 yes, the #8 fuse blows as soon as i put it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 8, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 8, 2020 I am just thinking what whould be drawing power, with the engine off, that could be shorting to the negative earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member TazMann Posted October 23, 2020 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 23, 2020 So even after the rear end was re-newed the noise that caused the replacement of all the bushes is still there. Further investigation and reading now point to the Transfer Case Hopefully nothing a simple oil change can't fix once the MOPAR only transfer case oil arrives that is. All i can say to people is make sure you use the correct MOPAR oil for the T-Case you have. I have a NV247J on mine and it has to have MOPAR only fluid. Lets hope this sorts it. If not, it will be refresh all the axle oil which i only did a while ago...... Piccies and write up to follow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 23, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 23, 2020 See there is always something to do on a Jeep - I think she heard you say no more work on her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member TazMann Posted October 26, 2020 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 26, 2020 On 23/10/2020 at 20:09, spookie the aardvark said: See there is always something to do on a Jeep - I think she heard you say no more work on her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted October 26, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 26, 2020 i got the short circuit fixed that was blowing the #8 fuse, i checked all the things we mentioned, the cable going to the rear wash wipe, the lift glass solenoid, the feeds to the tailgate etc, with no avail, so i sent it to my local auto electrician, who is a friend of mine, he traced the fault to a short in the roof lining, near to the electric sun roof, all is fixed now, with everything working again. happy days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 26, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 26, 2020 10 hours ago, TazMann said: Now you have to go out to her and promise some more mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member spookie the aardvark Posted October 26, 2020 Platinum Member Share Posted October 26, 2020 7 hours ago, frosty said: i got the short circuit fixed that was blowing the #8 fuse, i checked all the things we mentioned, the cable going to the rear wash wipe, the lift glass solenoid, the feeds to the tailgate etc, with no avail, so i sent it to my local auto electrician, who is a friend of mine, he traced the fault to a short in the roof lining, near to the electric sun roof, all is fixed now, with everything working again. happy days. Really glad you got it all sorted in the end frosty Something annoying like that is always in the most unlikely place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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