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Project XJ


RichBris86

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Good work!  All looks nice and solid behind the 'pretty face' (apart from whatever's broken of course)....  Shame about the clutch spring, doesn't look too bad a plate otherwise.

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Yea i was really lucky to find one that was 99% rust free. And yea. The clutch has 10s of thousands of miles left. Didnt damage the flywheel though so thats bonus.

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So the strip down continued yesturday, head is now off and thankfully the cylinder is scratch free. Il get the head sent off for pressure testing and skimming before it goes back on. Managed to snap an adaptor and an engine mount in the process lol

 

Before you can take the head off. You need to take the rockers andnlifter off. Its important to note where they came from so when you reassemble, the go back in the same location due to different wear pattern. There is a picture below how i layed mine out. Right, time to get back to it, crank and pistons out today.

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Ok. Everything is now apart. Ive got my list of new bits to buy. And a big degreasing job to do. I found the source of tue oil leak its had for the last 8 years lol. So thats a bonus.

 

And you can see how really lucky i was with how the piston broke

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Ok. I got caught out by the piston assembly. Never seen a push fit gudgeon pin before. Anyway. This posed a problem. As i couldnt get to bloody thing out at home.

 

But luckily im an engineer, with a fully equiped tool room.

 

So i made a press tool and out it popped. And now my new shiney piston is ready to put in the engine.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Cleaned the bell housing and mounted the engine ready to start the rebuild. Soon be over  :great:

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Ha. Thanks. This car has been a lot of 'fun' to work on. Im hoping it will be back on the road for mid jan. Its been more work than i thought it would be when i bought it, but thats the chance you take i guess. And in fairness, the miney i have spent on new engine parts could have got me a refurbed engine. But again, its all learning and fun doing it yourself. The proof will be when i turn that key and drive it out the garage!

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Did a little bit more today. Just cleaned up my thermostat housing ready for its new gasket. I tryed holding it straight in the mill vice, but it moved during cutting, so i ended up making a fixture for it. Nice and clean, and more importantly, flat now

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And its back on the head. 13 ft lbs if anyone is interested. Littles steps. But its still one step closer

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so, we hit the engine hard today, this is going to have to cover multiple entries to get all the right pictures in the right order, so bare with me.

 

firstly, my cam bearings turned up today, so its time to start the rebuild!!!!!!!!  :icon_king: :icon_king: :icon_king: :icon_king:

 

thanks to a very nice man from the facebook page for jeep owners, and a fellow engineer, he very kindly turned up a nice cam bearing removal/insert tool for me this morning, as he was in work and I wasn't, otherwise I would have done it myself. but it was free, so I'm not complaining.

 

the first lot of pictures show how it is set up. the second and third will show it in use.

 

basically, its a nice sized sholder and boss set up, which fits nicly inside all the bearing bores, but is smaller in outer diameter than all the bearings, allowing it to pass through the location holes without marking them. then I just fitted it on the end of an old tent pole so I have something nice and solid to hit with a hammer which wouldn't mark the holes if it hit them. worked a treat.

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and the next lot.

 

in these ones you will see the new bearings being installed, if you do this to your car, make sure yo line up to the oil access holes in the bearings to the oil channels in the enging casting, otherwise your bearings get no oil, and then, boom.

 

also, there was a strange mark on the first bearing i removed, any ideas what it might be

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right, onto the crank, these bearings are a little easier, as they are in two halves, with easy to see location marks in them. the one to watch out for, is the second one in from the front of the engine, which has a much larger set of shells as it also locate the position of the crank, and stops it moving forwards and backwards. the pictures will show this a bit better than I'm explaining it. again, make sure you line those oil holes up!

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and yet more pictures.

 

when you put the cam and crank back into there nice new bearings, its best to put a smear of oil around the mating faces, to make sure its nice and free moving during assembly, it will also prevent any damage to your new bearing faces from dry running.

 

when you fit the cam back in place, its important to note were the timing marker is on the sprocket, it need to be directly in line between the centre of the cam, and the crank axis, DO NOT MISS THIS PART!!

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these pics show the location of the crank.

 

When it comes to fitting the cam chain, make sure the mark on the sprocket is where is should be, and the crank is turned so pistons 1 and 4 are at top dead centre. then pull them both out a little from the casting, to allow you to fit the chain, but make sure you don't change the position of either shafts. when the chain is on, push them back into place and bolt the crank down. the torque for that is 108 nm (80ft lbs)

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next came the pistions, new rings fitted to all of them, after cleaning the old ring groves and drilling out the oil holes. then new shell bearings, with the same location method as before, oiled, and fitted. torque setting is 44nm (33 ft lbs)

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And now my new lifters and head gasket are in place. Time to fit the head. The thing to remeber with this is bolt number 8 needs ptfe around its thread and has a lower torque spec as it goes through a cooling channel. The torque settings are below.

 

First pass, 30nm

Second pass, 61nm

Third pass, 149 nm apart from bolt 8 which is 135nm

 

Then i fitted the rods and rockers and called it a night. Torque for the rockers is 25nm. 5 hours well spent. Il try and get it in the car tomorrow. Fingers crossed

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So today............was pointless.

 

I had totally forgotten that i needed to buy some gaskets for the camchain cover, oil pump and rocker cover. So no progress today other than cleaning the inside of the oil pump to make sure there was no piston floating around in there

 

Then i fitted and aligned the distributor. To do this, set piston 1 to top dead centre, as it will fire first, then make a mark just below the cap, right under the lead for the first spark plug. Then remove the cap and sit the drive gear down so it messhes with the camshaft. Its going to turn the arm a little. So when you set it over the mark you made, you will need to set it behind the mark, so when its fully seated, it turns clockwise to the correct place.

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