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1998 Cherokee 4.0 Ltd - Project


Fourpot

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I had just topped up the Transfer Case oil last week and the following morning found oil on the floor - leaking from the front output shaft. Damn, new seal that was. I must have put it in badly. Luckily it's not a difficult job to get it out even with the transfer case in the car (though the extra room that my new transfer case gear linkage gave me was a help). New seal ordered and arrived yesterday. Installed very carefully and with a little RTV around the edge. Oil back in this morning and it still leaks!  I'm now thinking I'll have to drop it back out of the car for a better look and hoping the casing isn't damaged or something...

I then noticed that the oil seemed to be coming from the end of the yoke, not from under the oil seal cover. So therefore it's leaking up the splines inside the yoke. This is without the damn thing even turning, it'd be hosing out if I drove it!

The guilty part is the little rubber washer/plug thing that sits in the end of the splined part of the shaft in order to stop this very type of leak. I may have not put that back in properly when I rebuilt the transfer case.

Anyway it seems in fairy good shape, so I've warmed it up and pressed it under a book, then re-installed with a good slug of RTV under it and under the big nut. This is not a slip yoke, so the splines don't slide on each other.

Seems to be fine now..  fingers crossed for the first drive.

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spookie the aardvark

Hope it all works ok mate after all the hard work you have put in

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17 hours ago, spookie the aardvark said:

Hope it all works ok mate after all the hard work you have put in

Sadly, it has still weeped more oil out overnight. I think despite the addition of RTV, the yoke washer is 'uggered. New one ordered.

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spookie the aardvark
2 hours ago, Fourpot said:

Sadly, it has still weeped more oil out overnight. I think despite the addition of RTV, the yoke washer is 'uggered. New one ordered.

Was it leaking oil .............................. or just marking its territory??????????????????? 🤣🤣🤣

 

Or has it been sat to close to a Land Rover??????????????????  🤣🤣🤣

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It is not uncommon to put a generous ring of RTV around the splines to seal the yoke to the shaft. Degrease the shaft and yoke splines first then use the RTV like a grease on the splines about a 1/4" from the end of the shaft. Slide the yoke on the shaft and wipe away the excess RTV. If done right, excess RTV will only appear on the nut end of the yoke.

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Face back on now.  I have got two new 'crystal' headlights - the reflectors do all the beam direction, rather than the lenses, and some fancy Philips Racing Vision GT200 H4 bulbs. I also swapped out the feeble sidelight bulbs for some LED ones (from Classic Car LEDs Ltd) that are really good. As bright as any DRLs!

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On 01/12/2020 at 20:34, frosty said:

lol, if you are thinking of aero dynamics, then an good as an XJ is a great truck, it is shaped like a brick, also, it is not really meant for motorways, it is an off road vehicle, and a very good one, even is standard form, i admire that you want it a daily drive, but what is your real goal for this awesome machine ?

This is a very good question.  I think, in the four years I've had it, the goal has shifted about a fair bit. Good reliability and efficiency (OK, I should put a Cummins diesel in it). Strong performance, comfy to sit for hours on the motorway. I had put on those big Smittybilt bumpers and a winch, and I'd bought, but never fitted, rock sliders and I'd tried a big tyre carrier too. These all added massive weight so I've shifted from having a tree-felling, wall-smashing tank, to something more subtly capable. I now have a 4.6 litre engine which should knock out about 250+ bhp and about 400nm of torque, and at much lower revs than where peak was with the standard engine. It has a 3" lift, bigger wheels and tyres, and will have Torsen diffs (like Audi use in their bigger Quattros) and Grand Cherokee brakes. A lot of this is not for any end result, but for the sheer pleasure (and pain) of working things out and doing the spannering.

Although I seemed to draw a lot of derision (on another thread) for suggesting I'd make it into an EV eventually, if I have it for more than another four or five years, I'll do just that. I'm already doing the sums for what motors I can use and batteries (or hydrogen fuel cell, or whatever develops in the meantime) and where it'll all fit. I reckon I can find 400kg (30% of the car's weight) by getting rid of everything to do with internal combustion, so lots of scope (and is the new E-Extreme series cool or what?!). 

So to answer your question, my answer is 'I've no idea, but I want to enjoy getting there but not ever getting there.' 

Edited by Fourpot
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Now that I have some space in the garage, with all the boxes of engine stuff now on the car, some other boxes I've had in the garage for about three years have been opened!  Rear disc conversion (kit from Rugged Ridge), front brake upgrade to Grand Cherokee - big job: new discs (which, as GCs have a 5x 5 stud pattern, will have to be drilled to 5 x 4.5), calipers, steering knuckles, and some fabrication of spacers (no kit for RHDs - had to get a scrap front axle from a 2004 WJ for the knuckles and shopped around for the rest of it). New UJs while I'm in there. The calipers will be painted the same Chevy orange as the engine. I'll just look at all this stuff for a while yet, until I've finished everything under the bonnet. I probably won't do it until the weather is warmer, so any paint will go on and dry better.

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spookie the aardvark

Great to see everything dissapearing from the boxes, that is going to be one awesome monster when it is all done. Hope to see it on the road and at events soon 👍👏👍👏👍👏

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Drat and double drat!  I just realised, while trying to get the neutral safety switch on the transmission aligned properly (reverse lights not coming on), that I hadn't refitted the little lock-washer and nut that go on the spindle. I have no idea where I put them, they wouldn't have been off for long, just the time it took me to clean the transmission and spray it with Coroheat. Hunted everywhere. Nope... vanished.

Of course I can't source new ones anywhere and that lock-washer is very unique looking. Rather than pay upwards of £120 for a whole new switch, I wonder has anyone got an old duff switch that I could have/buy the lock-washer and nut off?  The transmission is an AW4, found on all sorts of vehicles, and the switch is common to all of them. It's the brass coloured one in the picture.  

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spookie the aardvark

It's always the smallest part that cause the biggest headache 🥺

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48 minutes ago, V said:

Have you tried Toyota / Lexus parts counter?

 

This link features images with Toyota part numbers.

Excellent shout! As it happens, after a lot of interweb searching, I have found a cheap Toyota NNS and took a punt as the nut and washer look the same and the casing is stamped with AiS - which may have some link to Aisin? The very same-looking nut and washer can be found on some VWs and Saabs too it seems. 👍

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Home-made cold air intake finished off....  Some nice silicon tube from Viper Performance, lots of measuring, trimming and aluminium tube cut and polished, and some trim to the edges. There's now a minimum of 70mm ID tube/hose all the way to the throttle body which is only 62mm ID anyway, so easy flow all the way.

I've put the end of the breather hose in there too, so any nasty fumes will be drawn in gently to the intake, rather than sucked in hard with oily deposits as the stock system does.

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spookie the aardvark

Awesome 2 🤩🤩 that is the most amazing engine bay I have ever seen 👏👏👏

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I agree, yours is another gr8 project.  I especially like the fact that you make things yourself, not always relying on others parts!

I made my cold air intake on the YJ and bored out the throttle body along with a spacer I knocked up. I'm really pleased with it all. One thing I did find was that if you get in a lot of mud it clogs the filter. I bought some ''Outerwears'' pre filter bags which just slip over the filter when I'm going off road. They work well and solve the problem, much better than having to replace the filter. Hope that helps.

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On 22/01/2021 at 15:35, digger said:

I agree, yours is another gr8 project.  I especially like the fact that you make things yourself, not always relying on others parts!

I made my cold air intake on the YJ and bored out the throttle body along with a spacer I knocked up. I'm really pleased with it all. One thing I did find was that if you get in a lot of mud it clogs the filter. I bought some ''Outerwears'' pre filter bags which just slip over the filter when I'm going off road. They work well and solve the problem, much better than having to replace the filter. Hope that helps.

 

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Trust me to put my foot in it! I should have guessed!

Still brill project, look forward to seeing it one day when we get over the dratted CV.

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51 minutes ago, digger said:

Trust me to put my foot in it! I should have guessed!

Still brill project, look forward to seeing it one day when we get over the dratted CV.

Not at all...  to be fair, the filter I had on in that muddy picture was a Ramair foam thing, didn't seem to flow very well, clean or dirty. Just whistled like a 40-a-dayer breathing through an oxygen tube.

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On 23/01/2021 at 16:32, Fourpot said:

I got the part - fits perfectly. Toyota Camry and loads of other Jap cars

It would be interesting to find out what Toyota neutral safety switches are compatible swaps with the Jeep AW4. Did you manage to get any model year info for the Camry?

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On 29/01/2021 at 10:06, V said:

It would be interesting to find out what Toyota neutral safety switches are compatible swaps with the Jeep AW4. Did you manage to get any model year info for the Camry?

The ebay item was listed as - 'Neutral Safety Switch 84540-48010 For Toyota Corolla Corolla Crown Reiz Camry UK'

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So having acquired a neutral safety switch for a Toyota so that I could have the nut and washer, and bolted it in, I find that the reverse lights don't come on. This should be a simple matter of adjusting the switch position on the gear selector shaft so it lines up. No amount of movement within the range available would make the lights come on. So I took the whole switch off, took it apart, gave it a good clean and decided to check it while it isn't connected to the gearshaft and before I put it back together. Use a little bit of wire to make the contact and the lights came on. Happy that I'd sorted it, I put it back on the gearbox and same issue as before.  Then my light came on. I had replaced the gear shift linkage with a new one (gear lever to gearbox), so THAT needed adjusting. When I was putting it into reverse using the gear lever, it wasn't quite going into reverse in actuality (I have not yet connected the prop shafts, so had no idea what the gearbox was doing). Anyway, adjusted that and the NSS now works fine and the reverse lights come on when I use the gear lever to put the car into reverse... Phew. (And the safety aspect of the switch works fine too i.e. it will only start in P or N)

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spookie the aardvark

It's always the little things that cause the most hassle, good to see your getting on top of it 👍👍👍👍

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