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1998 Cherokee 4.0 Ltd - Project


Fourpot

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spookie the aardvark
4 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

Meanwhile, the speedo.

I found on Youtube, then process of doing an 'instrument cluster check'. That was easy. Press the trip-meter button and then turn the ignition on while still pressing the button. The gauges all check themselves and they whizz around their range. That was all good, so happily the problem is not with the gauges.

I have an old Transfer case that I'd bought cheap ages ago, just in case (oh pun!) so I found the old speedo drive from that, cleaned it up and swapped it in. Then while doing the oil leak test with the prop-shafts off, I had a look at the speedo and it's working. I nudged the revs up to give it an indicated 20mph, so it works OK it would seem. I'll find out later if that means the cruise control will now work.

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Great news Fourpot, she's back on the road even if she is still putting up a small fight. Awesome that is nothing major but still niggling. 

With the cruise control, is it possible that it is vacuum operated? Had exactly the same issue with the cruise control on my WG, traced the issue to a rotten vacuum pipe. Replaced that and works a treat now 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

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3 hours ago, spookie the aardvark said:

Great news Fourpot, she's back on the road even if she is still putting up a small fight. Awesome that is nothing major but still niggling. 

With the cruise control, is it possible that it is vacuum operated? Had exactly the same issue with the cruise control on my WG, traced the issue to a rotten vacuum pipe. Replaced that and works a treat now 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Thank you Sir! It is indeed vacuum operated, but the pipes are all good, visually and no hissing. When I re-did the loom, I left them all outside the electric wire parts of the loom so I can see and deal with them easily. Originally they're buried in the loom wrapping. Haven't got around to checking it all today, work demands as usual...

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On 05/01/2022 at 16:05, V said:

Congratulations. Judging by the build quality of your project I would have been surprised if it had failed.

Thank you!  A friend of mine who lives in Belgium and follows Jonny Purple-Jeep on Facebook has now asked me to rebuild the engine on his classic Porsche 911. 😬  Hmm, not sure I'm that good...

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spookie the aardvark
3 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

Thank you Sir! It is indeed vacuum operated, but the pipes are all good, visually and no hissing. When I re-did the loom, I left them all outside the electric wire parts of the loom so I can see and deal with them easily. Originally they're buried in the loom wrapping. Haven't got around to checking it all today, work demands as usual...

Your very welcome Fourpot, couldn't be as simple as vacuum pipe failure could it 😂😂😂

Good luck with tracing the issue 👍👍👍

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spookie the aardvark
2 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

Thank you!  A friend of mine who lives in Belgium and follows Jonny Purple-Jeep on Facebook has now asked me to rebuild the engine on his classic Porsche 911. 😬  Hmm, not sure I'm that good...

Run, run far away 🤣🤣🤣

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Today I have... started with a short run up the A500 for a couple of miles, just to check the oil seal in the transfer case was holding and to see if the speedo was indeed working and also the cruise control. I also went out with just the rear prop-shaft on. Back in the garage and a look underneath and the oil seal seems to be good. Speedo and cruise both working too.

Time for another 'shake-down' run around the roads of Cheshire and North Wales, some on the A55 at 70mph and the rest at whatever the speed limit was, or much slower as it was proper foggy in places. 

I put the front prop-shaft back on for this and lo and behold the vibration is back at 70 mph. I've taken that back off again and will take it Firow in Holmes Chapel for an overhaul and balance. The did the rear one last year for me.

The weather today was just damp and cold with the kind of road conditions that leave your windscreen covered in dirty muddy mist every time something goes the other way or when you're behind something else. Washer pumps not very good at all, just dribbling. I had to stop and clean the windscreen with a rag twice. So I've taken off the whole washer reservoir and the two pumps (one front, one rear). I found some sort of black slimy deposit in the bottom of the reservoir and little snot-balls of it in both pump filters. The whole lot is now in a bowl of hot soapy water for the night, then I'll power-wash the reservoir in the morning to clean it all out.

In the pic, one filter with snot-ball, the other after I picked the snot out.  I think the black snot may be from the washer being inactive for nearly two years and some kind of organic thing from the static detergent in the washer fluid. Now that the Jeep is back in use, it's been pulled into the filters.

 

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Glad you mentioned Firow, never heard about them before.  Had always assumed that if I ended up fitting an SYE in my TJ I would have to get a new propshaft from the US (Tom Woods, Adams, or whatever), but good to know there is a UK based alternative with shipping costs getting silly.

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Most of the UK propshaft rebuild firms will make a custom shaft for you. The downside is that you need to give them a dimensioned drawing/sketch of what you need which isn't easy for everyone. Finding a firm that will crawl under your Jeep and measure, well that would be getting close to a Tom Woods type of service.

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Fourpot, if you need replacement pumps they are cheap on RockAuto.com .

 

I have damaged my washer bottle a few times and patched it up with scraps of PE from a plastic milk bottle. It's become a vulnerable location for it when you have big tyres. The PE can be plastic welded with heat gun or soldering iron. I prefer the heatgun method but you should practice patching three or four milk bottles before doing the washer bottle as it's easy to end up with a molten blob of plastic.

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I know of a couple of pre and post facelift XJ's that are laid up so if there is any spares that you or anyone wants then I will have a look.

 

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10 hours ago, V said:

Fourpot, if you need replacement pumps they are cheap on RockAuto.com .

 

I have damaged my washer bottle a few times and patched it up with scraps of PE from a plastic milk bottle. It's become a vulnerable location for it when you have big tyres. The PE can be plastic welded with heat gun or soldering iron. I prefer the heatgun method but you should practice patching three or four milk bottles before doing the washer bottle as it's easy to end up with a molten blob of plastic.

I did just that quite soon after I got the Jeep as it was leaking through a ragged hole that meant it would only fill up about half-way. It's lasted quite well I think... I think I used silicon sealant and the electrical tape. I'm wondering if it's the sealant that has produced the sludge after the years it's been there, although I wouldn't have expected windscreen fluid to break it down.

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11 hours ago, V said:

Most of the UK propshaft rebuild firms will make a custom shaft for you. The downside is that you need to give them a dimensioned drawing/sketch of what you need which isn't easy for everyone. Finding a firm that will crawl under your Jeep and measure, well that would be getting close to a Tom Woods type of service.

I am lucky on that my rear prop-shaft is the same as a stock front one. i.e. with a double cardan joint. It'll work on a XJ with a 4-speed auto box and NP242 transfer case as the dimensions work out just right when you do the SYE. Doubly lucky with the NP242 in that I can drive with just one prop-shaft on (as described earlier) so the other can come in the boot. No mods needed for that shaft.

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Well, referring to my post on Wednesday 12th about the rear output shaft seal, breaking news! I had ordered a couple in case I damaged any (I seem to have form for it). Two more came today, from different suppliers, but both Crown items. One is the same as the one that's in place now (the one that no longer leaks, but I'm not comfortable with how the circlip is against it). The other is slightly different and would seem to be better in that the lip that is rubbing the circlip on one, does not protrude on the other and would probably not be in any contact with the circlip and probably not be near the circlips groove. The better one also has a slightly shorter skirt (what's not to like), so may not press on the oil-slinger as much either. So that's a job for tomorrow, swap them over. See the pics. The better-looking one is the middle picture and the one that's the same as the one currently in place is the last picture.

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Edited by Fourpot
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Further to my last... Although I had searched on/ordered 'rear output shaft seal for NP242 for Jeep XJ 1997 to 2001' I got two different seals.

The type already fitted that isn't a good fit is Crown part number 4798117, was the only one listed for my Jeep.

The good one is Crown part number 4638904 and the supplier listed it as for Jeep WG, WJ and XJ.  

Examining my spare TX case, I notice that the output shaft does not have the groove for the circlip, so 4798117 would probably be fine. But as mine (and all the ones on Youtube I could find) has the circlip, it needs 4638904 to fit. Both TX cases are NP242 J and were made in the same month. 

Top anorak stuff this, but it shows that items and the Jeeps they are supposed to be for can be very differently listed on retailers websites.

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spookie the aardvark
10 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

This was the solution. What was the problem?

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Fixing the leaky washer bottle maybe? Following Vs advice 🤔🤔🤔🤔😊😊😊😊

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7 minutes ago, spookie the aardvark said:

Fixing the leaky washer bottle maybe? Following Vs advice 🤔🤔🤔🤔😊😊😊😊

Nope. Next step - it became this...

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Went to put the new correct seal in but found that each time I came to bash it home, the inner lip would catch on the edge of the circlip groove and sort of prolapse. Luckily I could get the seal back out again without damage, but after it happened twice, I decided I needed a tool... smeared in oil it went in very smoothly, the lip is at least 2mm away from the groove so the circlip is free to rotate or not as it feels. A perfect fit.

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Did you source your rear output yoke in the UK? I swapped in the same style 242 into my '93 to replace the long tail 242 back in 2007 and I never got around to completing it. I think Go-Jeep in Australia published the part number, I will have to check if his site is still up.

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