Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 3, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted September 3, 2016 Well here we go! I have bought a 1998 Cherokee XJ 4.0 auto Limited in a lovely purple colour. It's done 155,000 miles and needs some lurrrv! It's currently on a SORN and will be until Phase 1 is completed. In the meantime, my transport is my trusty 1996 2.5 Cherokee, which I'll sell when the project is ready to drive. I'm splitting the work into a few phases: Phase 1. Strip off everything I don't want (lots of fun with an angle grinder and cutting disc!), strip out the interior with a thorough clean and lots of Waxoyl, steam clean just about everywhere. Fix anything that doesn't work ( so far this is cruise control and aircon). Fix any leaks and MOT advisories. Drop the axles and drive train, get it all blasted and powder coated, polybushes, 3" lift kit, full on 'Before n After' CR rust prevention treatment, Smittybilt bumpers both ends, re-upholster tatty front seats, fender flares. 255/65 16 tyres on modular 16x9 steelies (or thereabouts). Phase 2. Engine - posh stainless steel exhaust headers, 99+ intake manifold, throttle spacer, 4-hole injectors, cold air intake, sports cat and fancy stainless system ( for some nice noise as well as better flow!) Watch this space (you may have to wait some time) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 3, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 3, 2016 A few pics of inside etc as she is before I do anything.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 3, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 3, 2016 Some bits fell off..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 10, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 10, 2016 Even more bits fell off... soon I may put some back on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member jeepmynach Posted September 11, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted September 11, 2016 That rear parcel shelf is as rare as can be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 12, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 12, 2016 Parcel shelf free to a good home Jeepmynach! It's not perfect mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 20, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 20, 2016 Finally got the front seats and carpet out. Centre console was a pain to remove; had to get under the car and slack the handbrake cable right off so the lever would go up to fully vertical. Now I can really clean it up and examine for any corrosion - not much that's reached inside so far anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted September 23, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted September 23, 2016 A good going with the jet washer to get rid of a lot of fine mud from underneath and in the engine bay. Took off the wheel and took out the battery, air-box system and coolant expansion bottle. Found some corrosion under the battery tray that will need a bit of welding work. Also rust at each end of that bit of metal that protects the fuel filler hoses, which seems a common issue as it's rusty in the same place on my 2.5. Almost forgot to cover the throttle opening! Much cleaner now and now I can have a good look everywhere for any corrosion that needs sorting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 9, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 9, 2016 Well, after a lot of penetrating oil, blow torch heating, sweating and heaving, I finally got the front axle off. The main casualty was the track bar which was rusted solid at the ball joint to frame end - had to cut it off. A good scraping and some Waxoyl will precede the new 3" lift suspension going back on, with new nuts and bolts all round, after that battery tray area has been made sound again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Mac Posted October 9, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 9, 2016 Loving the write up... Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 16, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 16, 2016 Lots done this weekend... the plan was to drop the rear axle, but I couldn't for the life of me work out how to separate the ABS lead. The sensor end seems too big to go through the drum brake back plate and the plug inside the body won't go through the hole in the body. So I just undid the drive shaft to allow more waggle, held the axle up with a transmission stand and took out the springs, shocks and anti-roll bar. Well no, it wasn't that simple of course. I took the opportunity to inspect the drums.. thin and corroded, new ones needed. One of the anti-roll bar bracket bolts sheared, but I'm not that bothered as I don't intend to refit it anyway, all four upper shock bolts sheared right off, despite copious doses of penetrating/easing oil. It took three drill bits but I eventually drilled them out, re-tapped and fitted new bolts. Yes, I know there's an easier way using a hammer and some thin wire, but I didn't discover that until I'd finished. Anyway, lots of wire-brushing, greasing and Waxoyling later, I've got the Rough Country 3" lift springs and shocks fitted. Next up, refit the front axle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 24, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 24, 2016 It never fails to catch me out... the hidden costs of doing a project like this. all the bits that you find are worn out, seized solid, broken, corroded and so on. Anyway, finally got the lift kit fitted. As I had dropped the whole axle, rather than doing one side at a time, it became apparent how the stock track bar is just a tiny bit too short, about half an inch. I have managed to get it to locate where it should, so it's ll do for now although it's not quite aligned properly. Adjustable Rough Country job ordered from USA (£165 including postage and import duty - still cheaper and quicker than buying one here in Blighty) it'll be here next week :happy: Rear brake pipes corroding, so I've made up some new ones to go with the longer stainless braided hoses. Also put a new rocker cover gasket in to cure the oil leak at the back of the engine. Next task - put the driver's seat and seat belt back in and drive it to get a couple of bits of welding done then off down to Warwickshire to get the 'Before'n'After' rust-proofing treatment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member IrishMick Posted October 25, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 25, 2016 Am I reading this correctly as you ordered a trackbar from Rough Country? If so, that trackbar will be for a LHD Jeep and not a RHD jeep and they can't be flipped. You'll need someone to fab one out and/or find another manufacture who sells them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member TimC Posted October 25, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 25, 2016 What's the trick using the "hammer and thin wire" ?? Removing the sheared off bolts or rethreading the drilled out holes? I've always ended up drilling and retapping. Never perfect afterwards though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 29, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 I've just broken into a cold sweat! As IrishMick has rightly pointed out, track bars are 'handed'. I knew this before I started to look for one. After having had to cut the old one off, I have already got a new stock RHD one, that is on the car now. When I realised I needed an adjustable one I looked for a RHD adjustable one in the UK. Then a 'grey moment' had caused me to completely overlook this when ordering from the USA. As it's now half way across the sea, I can't cancel it. Oh Fug! :gasp: So now I've shelled out on a new RHD stock bar that's too short and a nice adjustable one that's the wrong way round... Like I said earlier, these hidden costs and steep learning curves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member SavMan Posted October 29, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 You don't need an adjustable one just one the right length. I just moved the hole on mine on the axle and its worked fine. You might need to weld the existing hole over as with a 3 inch lift it might be to close to the existing hole. Will see if I can find the link I found that shows details of how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member SavMan Posted October 29, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 Here you go http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoTrackbar.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 29, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 TimC, the trick works on these particular bolts as the captive nuts are secured to the body by only a small tack weld. If you use a drift or punch and a big hammer on the bolt stump, it can generally knock the nut off. The 'cavity' in the body where the nut goes is (sort of) accessible through a big hole near to it. You can then either drag a bolt though the access hole with some wire (so the nut and bolt are then the other way up) or use a bit of tape to hold a new nut in a spanner and wiggle it in place through the access hole, then put the bolt up through the original hole to engage with the nut that the spanner is holding. Look up 'Cherokee XJ rear shock bolts' on You tube and you'll find lots of videos on how to do it in various ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 29, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 Thanks Savman, ever the source of great wisdom! :great: I had seen the 'drill a new hole' method, but came to the conclusion that a new hole would be too close/fiddly, as the track bar probably only needs to be about 1cm longer. But the 'weld up the old hole' thing seems just the answer. Sweating less now! I wonder if I could get the stock bar made adjustable by cutting it and using dies, arrive at the same adjustment arrangement as the tie rod has (double sheer?) Anyone in need of a LHD adjustable track bar? for 1.5 - 4.5" lift. Going very cheap!? :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member SavMan Posted October 29, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 29, 2016 Thanks Savman, ever the source of great wisdom! :great: I had seen the 'drill a new hole' method, but came to the conclusion that a new hole would be too close/fiddly, as the track bar probably only needs to be about 1cm longer. But the 'weld up the old hole' thing seems just the answer. Sweating less now! I wonder if I could get the stock bar made adjustable by cutting it and using dies, arrive at the same adjustment arrangement as the tie rod has (double sheer?) Anyone in need of a LHD adjustable track bar? for 1.5 - 4.5" lift. Going very cheap!? :oops: You could use your LHD trackbar and one of your RHD trackbars cut the threaded end off the LHD one and cut the axle end off the stock one then weld a small steel tube sleeve over to join them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 30, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 30, 2016 You could use your LHD trackbar and one of your RHD trackbars cut the threaded end off the LHD one and cut the axle end off the stock one then weld a small steel tube sleeve over to join them. Brilliant! That's the plan! (cos I just KNOW I'd drill the hole in the bracket too far out and then even the stock bar would be too long!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Fourpot Posted October 30, 2016 Author Platinum Member Share Posted October 30, 2016 Finally I have a running Jeep again! Steering aligned and steering wheel centred, brakes bled and handbrake adjusted back up. Tyres pumped up and various checks (oil level, coolant level, washer bottle etc etc) done. All good. Road tested with stock track bar, all seems ok, but I will crack on with an adjustblee one to make sure it's spot on. Steers fine so far. Only got her up to 50 mph and only on the left, 'correct', side of the road, so very slight drift to the left. Probably road camber induced. I'll do another run at a quiet time so I can drive on the 'wrong' side of the road a bit to see what happens with the slight drift when the road camber is the other way. All sorts of rattles and clonks audible with the interior all stripped out, but nothing that sounds like bad news. Off to get the welding done on Tuesday. :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member woody-Jeep Posted October 30, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 30, 2016 Enjoyed reading this, youve certainly putting some hardwork into it, hope you continue to get your build completed :great: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member SavMan Posted October 31, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 31, 2016 Don't know the reason but have had 4 XJ's so far all lifted. 2 earlier ones pulled straight after alignment both 98 and later always pulled to the left even after alignment Only in a Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member Stew the Jeep Posted October 31, 2016 Platinum Member Share Posted October 31, 2016 Frequently had to get the tracking done on my old XJ after a PnP day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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