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1998 Cherokee 4.0 Ltd - Project


Fourpot

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On 26/06/2020 at 19:57, PDB said:

Corroheat is a trasparent film with a biege tint to form a varnish type coating. I have some for coating all in the engine bay after a steam clean. And for coating the shock absorbers and calipers.

 

As I understand it, the oil does the cooling in the gearbox and an oil cooler will help with cooling if an issue.

 

Are you planning on a lift and bigger tyres Fourpot?

Already lifted 3.5" and a bigger set of wheels and tyres...  I've ordered some Corroheat stuff.

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The last big dirty refurb job...(well, maybe)  Already thinking I should've just let this bit rattle on for another 10,000 miles...
The transfer case: mud, crud, leaked oil, and anti-rust gloop off; new bearings, seals and chain at the ready. Some hefty old chain and sprockets in there!

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spookie the aardvark

WD40 works wonders 😁 or was it it the cup of coffee?????????????????????????? 🤣🤣

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On 05/07/2020 at 08:32, PDB said:

With all the stripping of panels and components Fourpot  I wondered if you had come across an embossed Jeep motif as discussed in the thread linked below?

Easter eggs

 

What year is your Jeep?

It's a 1998, can't say I've ever seen anything like the thread, but as someone said, I haven't been looking. The only bearing clearly knackered was the front output shaft bearing. I think this TX case has been opened before, judging by the excessive RTV sealant everywhere...

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Transfer case all back together and looking shiny! I had to order a part form the USA (the oil-slinger dust-cover thing on the rear output shaft. I only ordered it on Thursday and it arrived from Florida (Cobra Transmissions) on Monday - 4 days! Awesome!

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i buy all my own parts from the states, shipping is always very fast, even 2 complete rubicon axles arrived in 4 days, if you buy parts from UK suppliers, you will usually pay twice the cost, even taking shipping and tax into account.

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spookie the aardvark
10 hours ago, frosty said:

i buy all my own parts from the states, shipping is always very fast, even 2 complete rubicon axles arrived in 4 days, if you buy parts from UK suppliers, you will usually pay twice the cost, even taking shipping and tax into account.

Hi frosty

Which sites do you use for parts? I have been looking for a replacement liftgate glass weatherstrip Jeep Grand Cherokee 2002. The only place I can find one is Morris 4x4, dont know if you have had dealings with them or what they are like. New to having to buy stuff from the states, or if you have any better suggestions.

cheers

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morris 4x4 are great, i  use quadratec and 4WD hardwear for most things, you can get some very good deals from quadratec, and it is always worth asking if they can give you any discount, especially after you have made a few purchases. buying from the states is very easy and straight forward, any one can do it. as an example, a when i wanted a Trek top for my JK, i was kept waiting by a UK supplier in the south of England, for 2 months, so i ordered one from USA myself, after shipping and taxes, i still saved over £200 on what the UK supplier wanted me to pay.  i know people have to make a living, but a mark up of over 50% on 1 item is simply being ripped off. 

When you are having work done on your Jeep, always check the prices you are being charged for parts that they are supplying, everything is available on line, and most of the garages that specialize in off road modifications can usually  get a discount on parts that they supply, i dont expect this discount to be passed on, but i also do not expect the parts to then be marked up again, to an over inflated price,  always get a quote for parts that you plan to have fitted, then check it on line. 

Due to working abroad a lot i have recently had a lot of work done on my jeeps at Hargreavs MOT center in Keighley BD20 5LY, they are non dealer Jeep specialists, there prices are always very fair, and they really know what they are talking about, they will order parts from overseas, and dont rip you off on the prices.  

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spookie the aardvark

Thanks for that frosty, I know what you mean as trying to find parts for older Jeeps over here is difficult to say the least 🥴 I thought the lift glass weather seal would be easy to find but the only place I could find one listed was Morris 4x4 so I will order from them. If the price from them including shipping, tax, duty ect is just under £160 I would hate to think what I would be charged if I picked it up over here.

The mechanic I have found to work on my Jeep is a Jeep specalist who only works on American cars and told me he trys to get everything he can from the States, he is very honest, reliable and fairly priced - believe me it yakes a lot for me to say that about a garage 🤮

Thanks for the advice frosty as always very much appreciated 👏👏👏👏👏

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On 07/07/2020 at 18:37, PDB said:

Yes a common theme it seems on JOC is speedy parts supply from USA. Praying for a trade deal. Oz trade deal would also open up some fantastic products for RHD jeeps.

 

Paint or corroheat Fourpot?

Corroheat, I may be a convert!

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On 09/07/2020 at 10:44, frosty said:

i know people have to make a living, but a mark up of over 50% on 1 item is simply being ripped off.

 

Thats pretty small compared to many clothing and DIY outlets to be honest ! 

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Corroheat ! Brilliant!  I sprayed the dust cover thing that goes betwixt engine and gearbox bell-housing. I can barely see a difference, but it's there alright.  So I sprayed the whole gearbox and transfer case too. Can't tell the difference there either, this stuff is great. Doesn't need much, not like paint spraying, just a light misting and the job's done.

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Finally ! Engine assembly commences. General Jeep wisdom advises getting the cam bearings pressed in by a professional, so the block, bearing and camshaft were taken down the road to Dave Brooks Engines (near Crewe) for that task.
The clearances between the crank and its bearings have to be bang on. Too tight and no oil can get between them = immediate disaster, too loose and it'll beat itself to death in a bit longer time. I used plasti-gauge to determine the gap. Very clever stuff. A thin 'hair' of plastic is put between the surfaces (dry), then it's assembled and torqued down. The plastic squishes and hopefully by the right amount. (My gaps were spot on thankfully, spec is between 1 and 3 thousandths of an inch. Mine were 2 thou -🙂). Then I wipe off all the plastic, put on some assembly lube and bolt it all down.

I was going to put the pistons in too, but the tricky bit is putting the rods onto the gudgeon pins. This is done by heating the little end until it's blue, then quickly slipping it into place before it cools and grips the gudgeon pin. The first one I tried almost got stuck in the wrong place, barely 1mm in! Fortunately I managed to quickly tap it back out. As this is a set of specialist rods and pistons from the USA, I'm not minded to learn and practice on them. Back to Dave Brooks...! 

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Got the pistons and rods back form Dave Brooks, time to get them in. I got the rings gapped, just a few of the second compression rings needed a bit of filing, and onto the pistons.  I managed to get No.1 piston in, but in the middle of doing piston No.2, my 30-year-old ring compressor broke. 

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This re-built engine is a thing of beauty, it's going to be a shame to get it dirty..... 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Progress is slow at the moment. The pistons all went in on arrival of my (much stronger) ring compression tool. My daughter helped by doing the torquing and oiling and installing the oil pump.

My engine has a big strap thing that bolts onto the main bearing cap bolts (to brace them and prevent too much flex stress on the block). The bolts have an extra bit on for this. Because the stroke is longer, the strap needs to be a bit bit further away from the end caps, otherwise the big ends would hit it. The engine kit I bought from the US came with a set of nice ARP washers to space it out. Unfortunately these aren't enough and the big ends still hit the strap. 

There's not enough thread on the ends to add more spacers and still leave enough room for the nut, so I had to undo the bearing cap bolts and put some M12 washers under them. Then put the ARP washers on and the strap. But, there's not quite enough room left for the original nuts, so I got some 3/8 UNC steel lock-nuts that are slimmer and it all went together nicely. Now there is plenty of room for the strap and the big ends to live in peace, not pieces!

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Engine finally done up! Meaning the head and sump are on.

First job was to lubricate (with a special assembly lube for this type of cam/follower design - flat tappet cams) and drop in the cam followers. Then on goes the head. I had to buy a tube of special sealant for just one of the head bolts, as it goes through the head into the water jacket. Then I put in the pushrods and the rockers on top. Each pair of rockers have two bolts attaching them to the head. These are done up to a torque of 19 ft lbs, or if you mis-read the manual, 80 ft lbs. Yep, the first one sheared straight off.

Fortunately there was enough of the stub sticking out to be able to unscrew it. Now I need a new bolt...

Finally got it all fixed and rotated the crank to make sure all the valves are opening and closing properly, nice and smooth, no 'sticky bits'. Next job, bolt on the ancillaries, the manifolds, the mounting brackets, the coil, the dizzy.......

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Getting close to engine back in the car day.... 

I have given it some more Chevy orange paint to go over various joints and some scratches, then ancillaries on, engine mounts on, manifolds, thermostat on etc... The fuel rail and all the bits that go on top of the manifold will go on after the engine is in, same for the dizzy and leads.  I may just take the steering pump and alternator off again to make it a bit more easy to get to the engine mounts. But I've put those and the belt on for now to make sure everything is in the right place and fits.

The eagle-eyed may have noted there's a bolt missing from the manifold side engine mount (Mount to block). No idea where it went but I cant find it. Anyway, onto the interweb to find a replacement and now I see a few forum threads about these bolts being prone to failure. So I'll be taking them all out and replacing them with the newest 'well-hardest' bolts I can find. Also people have said that they can reach the end of the hole before the correct torque is reached and shear off!  So I'm putting an additional washer under each one for an extra 1/8" room.  

I have also ordered some short bolts to replace the studs that held the viscous fan on. That's now redundant as I'm going all electric (the same eagle-eyed will spot that that pulley isn't on properly).

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spookie the aardvark

You have done an amazing job there 😍👍😍👍😍👍 Should we be worried about all the left over bits on the floor in the third photo????????????????? 🤣🤣🤣

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5 minutes ago, spookie the aardvark said:

You have done an amazing job there 😍👍😍👍😍👍 Should we be worried about all the left over bits on the floor in the third photo????????????????? 🤣🤣🤣

Ha ha, that's the content of the scrap bucket, I emptied it out trying to find the missing bolt...

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