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My WK2 Cute Friendly Giant.


LazyFerret

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10 hours ago, LazyFerret said:

That would be very nice of you. I'll PM you my email address.

 

Edited to add...

 

I can't PM now they have changed the board.

You using this Link hope it helps 

 

Here’s a link to the 2014 factory service manual

https://2axs.com/vault/manny/d1.php?f=ZmlsZXMvLUpFRVBfTUFOVUFMUy9XSzJfMjAxMS0yMDEzL0plZXBfR0NfMjAxNF8tMjAxNl9SZXBhaXJfTWFudWFsLnBkZg

Failing that, send your vin to tech authority & get one specific for your car


https://www.techauthority.com/en-us/products/81-370-16064-CD
 

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12 hours ago, Derek said:

You using this Link hope it helps 

 

Here’s a link to the 2014 factory service manual

https://2axs.com/vault/manny/d1.php?f=ZmlsZXMvLUpFRVBfTUFOVUFMUy9XSzJfMjAxMS0yMDEzL0plZXBfR0NfMjAxNF8tMjAxNl9SZXBhaXJfTWFudWFsLnBkZg

Failing that, send your vin to tech authority & get one specific for your car


https://www.techauthority.com/en-us/products/81-370-16064-CD
 

Thanks for that, the link worked perfectly.

 

I was perfect timing as well, as this morning, I had a smallish red light on the dashboard, no symbol, just a round red light.

 

I discovered it was to do with the alarm. I had managed to run the battery down, doing odds and sods, and had put the car on charge over night, but it seems the computers were not too happy about it. Fortunately, disconnecting the battery for the time it took to have a cup of tea, and then reconnecting it seems to have cured it (fingers crossed).

 

Anyone know how to tell what extras the car would have been delivered with? e.g, if the original buyer paid to have the uprated alarm, how would I know?

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Something else we noticed with our Jeep are the chimes that occasionally happen when turning.  It starts the chimes and then stops.  I now suspect that as the Jeep has the advance warning, if you indicate the warning chime may sound if there is a vehicle in front of you as you are turning to the left and it registers as an obstacle or if turning right and there are vehicles travelling in the opposite direction that are stopped.  I thought it was only happening when the caravan was hooked up.  Only a theory but on Saturday while returning home there was a sharp bend ahead and the car braked and the chimes started plus the warning on the dashboard.  I was probably doing under 50 and it is a sharpish bend but not right angled.  Food for thought? 

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7 hours ago, Surfer said:

Something else we noticed with our Jeep are the chimes that occasionally happen when turning.  It starts the chimes and then stops.  I now suspect that as the Jeep has the advance warning, if you indicate the warning chime may sound if there is a vehicle in front of you as you are turning to the left and it registers as an obstacle or if turning right and there are vehicles travelling in the opposite direction that are stopped.  I thought it was only happening when the caravan was hooked up.  Only a theory but on Saturday while returning home there was a sharp bend ahead and the car braked and the chimes started plus the warning on the dashboard.  I was probably doing under 50 and it is a sharpish bend but not right angled.  Food for thought? 

Not sure I like the idea of the car braking by it's self. Sounds like you need to have a re-read of the manual. ?

 

Been busy on the Cute Friendly Giant again, fitted an Anderson connector to the front bumper, so I can plug in my Jump leads, and I also use it to connect the car to the caravan, to double up the battery capacity, and it also means the caravan solar panels keep the car charged.

 

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You may also notice the LED light bar hidden in the bottom grill, and some extra marker lights in the top grill.

 

I also fitted the Side Steps.

 

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2 hours ago, LazyFerret said:

Not sure I like the idea of the car braking by it's self. Sounds like you need to have a re-read of the manual. ?

 

 

Mine used too when you were approaching something rather fast!

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you have the adaptive cruise control on and the car in front brakes sharply the Jeep will also brake sharply even though you have not touched the brake pedal.  Also brakes gently if it thinks there is an obstacle ahead, but if you carry on going straight for the obstacle it will brake again.  The brake lights activate each time.  Same with lane warning I think?

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Fitted a new battery today.

 

The one that was in the car when I got it, was not holding a charge for more than 3 or 4 days and I had no idea how old it was. Having read one or two posts where flat batteries seem to have caused other issues, I decided to play it safe, and got a Bosch one with a 4-year guarantee, so hopefully that is one thing I do not need to worry about for a while.

 

It's fun to change, It's a bit like the Chicken and Egg conundrum, you put the seat right forward to get to the negative terminal, but then have no power to move the seat back to get to the positive terminal...

 

Has anyone else notice that if you drop something when working on a Jeep, it drops into one of several places that are impossible to ever find the dropped item ever again?

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5 minutes ago, LazyFerret said:

Fitted a new battery today.

 

The one that was in the car when I got it, was not holding a charge for more than 3 or 4 days and I had no idea how old it was. Having read one or two posts where flat batteries seem to have caused other issues, I decided to play it safe, and got a Bosch one with a 4-year guarantee, so hopefully that is one thing I do not need to worry about for a while.

 

It's fun to change, It's a bit like the Chicken and Egg conundrum, you put the seat right forward to get to the negative terminal, but then have no power to move the seat back to get to the positive terminal...

 

Has anyone else notice that if you drop something when working on a Jeep, it drops into one of several places that are impossible to ever find the dropped item ever again?

When I took my battery out I just removed the seat 4 bolts and it was out. When disconnecting anything electrical always disconnect the positive first to avoid frying any circuits. When my battery went low I got all sorts of warning lights car said it was in drive and would not start even with jump leads got airbag warnings traction control warnings dash board was like a Christmas tree. 

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1 hour ago, Derek said:

When I took my battery out I just removed the seat 4 bolts and it was out. When disconnecting anything electrical always disconnect the positive first to avoid frying any circuits. When my battery went low I got all sorts of warning lights car said it was in drive and would not start even with jump leads got airbag warnings traction control warnings dash board was like a Christmas tree. 

Cheers, as I mentioned a few post back, I had a red light come up a few days ago, and the parking sensors stuck on bleeping continually, the last time the battery got low, and I re-charged it in situ. Fortunately a disconnect, and charge of the battery while disconnected, sorted those out.

 

I managed the do the battery with the seat as far forward as it goes, lifted front and back to it's highest setting, and the back upright, although you do need to lower the head rest. Once in that position, I could get the battery out and back in reasonably easily.

 

Not sure about the disconnecting the positive first, I was taught to always do the negative first, as it stops the chances of shorting the spanner to the body while undoing the positive, once the earth is disconnected. Also the jeep blurb says to disconnect the negative before doing any work near airbags etc. On my Grand Cherokee, you can not actually get the positive off the terminal, without having undone the battery restraint, and sliding the battery back so it clears the plastic over hang.

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20 hours ago, LazyFerret said:

Cheers, as I mentioned a few post back, I had a red light come up a few days ago, and the parking sensors stuck on bleeping continually, the last time the battery got low, and I re-charged it in situ. Fortunately a disconnect, and charge of the battery while disconnected, sorted those out.

 

I managed the do the battery with the seat as far forward as it goes, lifted front and back to it's highest setting, and the back upright, although you do need to lower the head rest. Once in that position, I could get the battery out and back in reasonably easily.

 

Not sure about the disconnecting the positive first, I was taught to always do the negative first, as it stops the chances of shorting the spanner to the body while undoing the positive, once the earth is disconnected. Also the jeep blurb says to disconnect the negative before doing any work near airbags etc. On my Grand Cherokee, you can not actually get the positive off the terminal, without having undone the battery restraint, and sliding the battery back so it clears the plastic over hang.

 

Yeah, I was also taught “disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last” not sure why though....habit now.

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Always disconnect negative first ( or positive if you have a very very old vehicle with positive earth!) This is to avoid the possibility of your spanner touching any metalwork whilst disconnecting the positive lead with negative (earth) still connected and causing a flashover.  (for mains electrical work like domestic you would disconnect 'live' cable first, but it would most likely be made dead first anyway! unless you are an Electricity Company Authorised Cable Jointer who work with it live!)

(you cannot 'fry' the electrics as there is no current path back to the battery, and if battery is flat as a proverbial pancake then there is no electrical energy available. If battery has some residual charge then ensure everything is switched off to avoid drawing an arc when disconnecting the negative lead from the battery. This will avoid 'spikes' getting into the electronics and avoiding igniting  spurious petrol fumes or battery hydrogen if you have just tried charging the battery.)

Also, with some vehicles make sure keys are outside the vehicle or windows open, cos some central locking activates when new battery reconnected and locks all the doors! And have your radio code handy to re-program your radio (although with my KJ it didn't matter cos radio fired up ok)

Of course you could connect a jump starter battery to the system before you start, to maintain 12 volts whilst changing main battery. But now be very careful when disconnecting the main leads!

(check out some u-tube videos about changing batteries, eg. the Tayna Battery one and others, like AA)

 

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Doesn't have to be, but they do have their advantages. And if you occasionally turn your Jeep on it's side or even upside down, it avoids spilling battery acid everywhere!  LOL

 

The following I copied from the web :-

What are the advantages of an AGM battery?

AGM is maintenance free, provides good electrical reliability and is lighter than the flooded lead-acid type. It stands up well to low temperatures and has a low self-discharge. The leading advantages are a charge that is up to five times faster than the flooded version, and the ability to deep cycle.

 

Battery technology has moved on apace in the last few years.

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 If the vehicle specifies an agm battery then it has to be this. 

The battery is charged at a slightly higher voltage than a standard lead acid battery. The alternator is different.

The extra voltage may or may not reduce the life of a standard battery but I'm sure you will have problems.

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We have an AGM battery for our caravan and over the winter it went flat due to me leaving the 12v switched on.  We could not get to the caravan for about 2 weeks so for about 2 weeks it sat at about 5v.  I can read the battery voltage in the caravan remotely.  Took it home and charged it up.  Still working 100% whereas most leisure batteries would have been finished!

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  • 2 months later...
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I finally got to the bottom of the battery light coming on.

 

With the warmer weather, the error was coming up more often, so I decided to start the fault-finding process in ernist.

I disconnected the battery, then removed the coolant expansion tank. I then went round as many plugs and sockets as I could get to, released them, checked how clean they were, and then sprayed them with some contact cleaner.

I then used silicon grease round all the seals, and put them all back together. I have to say they were very clean to start with, so I don't think that there are any connector issues it that part of the engine bay.

While they were disconnected, and the tank out the way, it was a bit easier to get to the alternator, so I checked the earth and feed were clean, and tight, all good.

I then went to disconnect the 3 pin plug at the back of the alternator, but it just fell off as soon as I touched it. I discovered that it just slipped on and off, with no apparent locking mechanism.

When I looked into the 3 pin plug (which only has one wire) I could see that there was a bit of plastic jammed into the locking mechanism. At this point, I had a mild panic attack, as that presumably means the catch has snapped off of the alternator connector, which would mean a new alternator. I started to look to see if there was a way that I could fabricate some sort of mechanism to secure it, and while giving that some thought, I decided to remove the bit of plastic in the locking mechanism. Unfortunately, it pinged out and vanished somewhere across the driveway, so I could not look at it and carry out an autopsy.

Anyway, I decided to push the plug back on, and it went on a lot further than it had been, and snapped into place.

I am now hoping that that may have been the problem, and I have cured it... Famous last words..

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I have done a few other jobs since I last posted.

 

I have added #:-

Extra side lights along the side steps. These work as both side lights and indicators.

 

Covert amber strobes to both the front and back. On the back, both the reversing lights, and the indicators have strobe bulbs in, and on the front, I have mounted them in the fog lights, and behind the grill. I have also used a Whalen unit to flash the side markers as well. All of these are controlled by some nice little touch switches mounted in the front part of the roof console.

 

When we go away camping, we have a portable freezer which runs on both Mains and 12v and goes into the boot. We plug it into both a 12v outlet, and also a mains socket. The mains socket is fitted to an external plug under the boot handle, so when on sites with electric hook up, we can plug the car in, and save the car battery from running flat.

 

I moved the dual voltage meter, as it was not very easy to read, and put it into a far more prominent position on the dash.

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  • 1 month later...

Lovely work you have done on your WK2, Lazy Ferret.

 

Just looking back a few posts ago, in April, about needing an AGM battery in the WK2; I don't know if it applies in the UK, but I recently read that, because it is inside the passenger compartment, a free liquid (standard lead-acid) battery cannot be used, in case it spills acid should the vehicle turn over. Apparently a legal requirement in Australia, and perhaps elsewhere. Seems sensible to me, so I'll keep to that when I have to renew.

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  • 6 months later...
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Where is the AGM battery located in the 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland?  Is it under the passenger seat or the driver's seat?  Thanks.

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