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My WK2 Cute Friendly Giant.


LazyFerret

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Been busy again...

 

I have taken the plunge, and drilled 2 holes in the roof... One for the socket for the roof light, and the second for another socket for the amber beacons. This entailed having the roof lining down, and running the cables to the back of the car, when I have my Relays.

 

Next I had to find a Main Beam feed trigger for the spot lights.. Not so easy on the Jeep as it has HID head lamps, and uses CanBus, so it's not just a case of tapping into the main beam feed like all the cars I have had up to now.

 

I had to take a lot of the plastic shielding out of the engine bay to get to bits, but finally picked up a feed, and ran it back into the car through the fire wall, using an existing grommet. I then had to put all the shielding back...

 

Once inside the car I will use a bypass relay to clean the signal to drive a proper relay, but waiting for the bypass relay to arrive.

 

So, as that was a stop, I set to work getting it ready for a second battery.

 

On the Grand Cherokee, the main battery is in a well under the drivers seat, and there is a second well on the passenger side, which is taken up with a big bit of plastic to allow jeep to put various control modules in. In my cars case, this consists, of 2 relays and a small module to control the transfer box.

 

So, I cut out the plastic insert with a dremil, moved the modules/relays over to one side, and end up with a nice big well to put the battery in.

 

I forgot to take a picture of the plastic insert, I will take one of the bit I cut out tomorrow as it is unbelievable how much work they took to waste such a great bit of space.

So this is the hole as cut out.
Batterymount1.jpg

 

I then tucked the module and relays off to one side, and cleaned up the sharp edges on the plastic.
Batterymount2.jpg

 

The bottom of the hole had an epoxy sound proofing, but as you can see it is very rough and quite thick.
Batterymount3.jpg

 

I cleaned this all out, and sanded it all smooth. By removing this, not only do I gain a bit of room, but also protect the bottom of the battery from rubbing, and possibly rupturing.
Batterymount4.jpg

 

Once it was all cleaned up, I Hammerite'd it, to protect it and left it to dry.
I will take more pictures as this progresses.

 

I managed to pick up a Waeco dc40 which is a 40amp DC battery to DC battery charger, for a great price on Ebay, so in the spirit of keeping all of my wiring isolated from the Jeeps wiring, using Bypass relays for triggers, and everything I fit will be on the second battery, which will  be charged from the first battery via this unit. I hope to fit this under the rear seats, but have not measured this up yet.

 

The next job was to fit the PMR.


I have a Tait 8200 unit, which can be used as a stand alone unit, or the facia can be removed, and used remotely, allowing you to hide the main unit.

 

First job was to mount the main unit in the back wing, behind the plastic trim.


To do this, I made a small pedestal to make it clear all the wiring looms.
PMRmount1.jpg

 

Onto this I put the PMR mount.
PMRmount2.jpg

 

And then the radio mounts like this.
PMRmount3.jpg

 

I didn't want to drill any holes in the dash board, especially as I am not sure how long we will be using analogue radios, so may need to change to digital one in the future.

I removed the centre of the dash, and made up 2 stainless steel brackets, which use the existing radio screw to fix to the dash, and the bracket then passes out through the gap between the trim panels.
PMRmount4.jpg

 

Finishing up looking like this.
PMRmount5.jpg

 

PMRmount6.jpg

 

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I managed to get the Waeco DC40 installed today.

 

First job was to lift the rear seats... Nice and easy on the Jeep, just undo 2 bolts, and 2 nuts, then hinge them up out the way, exposing the carpet underneath. I did have to use a luggage strap to tie the seat up.

DC40inst1.jpg

 

For some reason, the carpet is moulded and raised about an inch from the floor, but once lifted, I could see it was to clear some studs welded to the floor. I cut the carpet in the area where the DC40 was to go.
DC40inst2.jpg

 

I then removed the 2 studs that were in my way, and also trimmed the mount for the DC40, to fit into the space. The seats on the jeep move forward, and also lower when folded, to make the loading area flat. By putting the DC40 right back, means as the seats fold down and move forward, it leaves the DC40 in the gap behind.
DC40inst3.jpg

 

Once the studs were cut off, I painted the area to protect it from rust. I used a touch up paint, which dried a lot lighter than the photo shows.
DC40inst4.jpg

 

All mounted in position.
DC40inst5.jpg

 

I used 50amp Anderson connectors to connect it all up, and ran the cables between the battery locations.
DC40inst6.jpg

 

These are then all hidden under the carpet, the seats all bolted back down, and everything hidden away and safe.

 

There is a remote control cable for the DC40, which will be run up to a switch on the dashboard, so I can choose to switch it off, if the main battery is low, and I want all the charge to go into that.

 

Next job is the install the battery.

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Had a chance to get a fair bit done on the car...

 

She is starting to look like my car at last.

Itsstartingtolooklikemycar.jpg

 

Got the second battery fully installed under the passenger seat.
2ndBattery.jpg

 

And after sorting out all the wires and fuses, I ran these two wires to the rear of the car, the top one is from the main Battery, which the Towbar Electrics are connected too, and the lower one, is from the second battery, which everything else is connected to.
2ndBatteryrear.jpg

 

As I had to remove the seats to get proper access to the batteries, and also remove the lower dash apron from under the steering wheel, all of which have airbag or such like installed, I disconnected the batteries, and left it for 20 mins. The problem with electric seats is then discovering that you can't get to the back mounts, so I then re-connected the batteries, and moved the seats forward after undoing the front mounts, then disconnect the batteries again, and go and have a cup of tea.

 

While the seats were out, I took a bit of time to tidy the brackets up that are under them, increasing the amount of space under the seats so I can store a few bits under there.

Passenger seat before.
NSseatBefore.jpg

 

Passenger seat after.
NSseatAfter.jpg

 

I also did the Drivers seat as well. I forgot to take a before, but this is the after, and the before was pretty much like the passenger seat.
OSSeatAfter.jpg

 

One of the weird things about the Jeep are it's connectors... It's like every connector has a different way of disconnecting it, and some seem to be overly complicated.

This is the air bag connector from under the dash. You have to pop the orange bit up to get it to release.

Airbagconnector1.jpg


Airbagconnector2.jpg


Airbagconnector3.jpg


Airbagconnector4.jpg

 

I Used Carling switches, which I fitted in to the dash. On the Passenger side of the steering wheel, I had to heat the panel up with a heat gun, and mould it to create a flat bit for the switches.

 

There is a Switch to turn on and off the rear boot power Socket. One to turn on the Waeco DC40 battery charger for Battery 2, and then a Dual Volt meter, with the Main battery voltage displayed on the top, and the 2nd battery on the bottom.

 

The flash has made that crease look a lot harsher than it really is.
NSswitch.jpg

 

On the outside of the steering wheel, I fitted 4 switches, some of these are for future add ons.

 

The roof and front spots come on with Main beam, so the first 2 switches isolate these. The next switch is for the extra rear white lights to be fitted in the future, and the last switch is for the roof Amber beacons.
OSswitch.jpg

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On 21/02/2019 at 19:37, Vantastic said:

Cool, I want to have a strobe setting on my lights, so can flash back at dazzling cyclists. ?

 

LOL.... the Strobe switch is for the Amber Beacons... but now you mention it...

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I have been doing odd jobs on the CFG the last little while, most things are not worthy of pictures but I will note them, just for my future reference.

 

I have added RivNuts into the rear seat backs, so I could add some decent fixing eyes that are available with the seats in the up right position, in the boot area. I know there are the child seat restraints on the back of the seats, but they end up behind the trim that covers the gap, when the seats are up, so not much use. I was very surprised to see just how flimsily fixed down the supplied luggage restraints are, and would not like the idea of our standard response equipment, that is stored in the boot, relying on those in the event of an accident to keep things in place. The rear of the seats have a thin MDF cover, but under that, there is metal, so I recessed the rivnuts through the MDF into the metal. Now the boxes are held tightly against the back of the seats.

 

Another job was to fit a luggage net across the front of the rear seats, so I can store the First Aid kit under there, and it does not slide out every time I brake.

20190224_173255.jpg

 

I added a removable net across the rear of the boot, so when I open it, and things are piled high, it does not all fall out, and at the same time, various webbing bridges in strategic places to allow me to strap things down.

 

I have again changed the boot reversing camera, for one with a wider field of view, and it also had a small amount of adjustment, which now means I have it angled down more than the fixed one I previously fitted, and can now see the edge of the towbar... Much better.

 

I have repeatedly tried to stick a little storage pocket to the A pillar, to keep a small remote control in. I have tried about 4 different kinds of trim tape, plus the 3M stuff that originally came with the pocket, but I am finding nothing seems to stick for more than 2 days to the Jeep's plastic trim. On my old car, I used the hook half of Velcro to attach the remote to the roof lining, but again, the Jeep has foiled me, as Velcro does not seem to stick to anything in there, carpets included.

 

As you may have guessed from my handle, I have pet ferrets. I have had them for 19 years, and ours are house pets, currently with 12 living free reign, as most people would have a cat or dog. In 19 years, my hands have never looked as bad as my first 2 months of owning a Jeep... I know you can tell a person who is a LandRovers enthusiast by the amount of oil and grease on them, but I now also know you can recognise a fellow jeep enthusiast, but the number of cuts, scrapes and scratches on their hands...


20190306_180327.jpg

 


20190306_180342.jpg

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Great updates so thanks for sharing.  Our biggest issue with our 2012 WK is the dashcam fitting.  It was done by Halfords who wired into the 12v supply in the centre console where you would keep CDs etc and not the front one.   Unfortunately this 12v remains live so have to remember to switch off dashcam when we park up for a long time. On going back to Halfords we were told that they are not allowed to access the engine compartment where the uses are located.    Now need to find someone who is willing to do this in the Worcestershire area. 

We want to source and buy wind deflectors for the front and rear windows as handy when we are out with the caravan and need to go shopping and the dogs are with us.  Even if it is raining you can leave the windows down a bit for a draught!  Jeep want a fortune for just the front ones!  The next thing is chrome covers for the side mirrors like we had on our 2005 Jeep WK.

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For Wind Deflectors try VF Autozone - autozonevf@yahoo.co.uk  (J&J Automotive, Sidcup, Kent) set of 4 - £25!

 

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On 18/03/2019 at 16:53, jerryg said:

For Wind Deflectors try VF Autozone - autozonevf@yahoo.co.uk  (J&J Automotive, Sidcup, Kent) set of 4 - £25!

 

Thanks have ordered them and are now looking for the chrome mirror covers for a 2012 GC at a reasonable price.  On Amazon someone is advertising them for over £800!  The last lot that I bought for my 2005 WK cost about £25.

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5 hours ago, Surfer said:

Thanks have ordered them and are now looking for the chrome mirror covers for a 2012 GC at a reasonable price.  On Amazon someone is advertising them for over £800!  The last lot that I bought for my 2005 WK cost about £25.

Let me know how you get on with that company, I ordered the window deflectors and a bonnet spoiler from them over Christmas. They sent an Email saying they had been dispatched on the 2nd of Jan with a shipping number and would be with me by the 8th. When the 8th came and went, I chased them up, to be told they were with Parcelforce, and to wait until the end of the week. Then I got an Email to say the parcel had been lost, and now they were out of stock, despite them still showing them for sale on Ebay. At this point I asked for a refund as it was sounding too dodgy.

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On 20/03/2019 at 19:34, LazyFerret said:

Let me know how you get on with that company, I ordered the window deflectors and a bonnet spoiler from them over Christmas. They sent an Email saying they had been dispatched on the 2nd of Jan with a shipping number and would be with me by the 8th. When the 8th came and went, I chased them up, to be told they were with Parcelforce, and to wait until the end of the week. Then I got an Email to say the parcel had been lost, and now they were out of stock, despite them still showing them for sale on Ebay. At this point I asked for a refund as it was sounding too dodgy.

I ordered from a German company on eBay.  Here is the link  They are not the stick on ones like we had on our 2005 Jeep GC or the Shogun, but clip into the channel.  They look quite neat on our 2012 Jeep GC Overland Summit.  Got them mainly for when out and about with the dogs so we can leave them in the vehicle while doing a bit of shopping plus we can open the roof.  Chrome caps for the mirrors are ridiculously priced at the moment.

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5 hours ago, Surfer said:

I ordered from a German company on eBay.  Here is the link  They are not the stick on ones like we had on our 2005 Jeep GC or the Shogun, but clip into the channel.  They look quite neat on our 2012 Jeep GC Overland Summit.  Got them mainly for when out and about with the dogs so we can leave them in the vehicle while doing a bit of shopping plus we can open the roof.  Chrome caps for the mirrors are ridiculously priced at the moment.

They look very smart. I will have to show them to the boss. I have just ordered a set of side steps, so have spent my allowance this month (year). LOL

Like you, we need them for the animals. I don't have the sun roof.

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16 hours ago, LazyFerret said:

They look very smart. I will have to show them to the boss. I have just ordered a set of side steps, so have spent my allowance this month (year). LOL

Like you, we need them for the animals. I don't have the sun roof.

Do you tow with your Jeep and if you do when using the indicators do you get a loud chime?

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6 hours ago, Surfer said:

Do you tow with your Jeep and if you do when using the indicators do you get a loud chime?

I have not yet towed with it, as I am just starting to get the caravan out of hibernation. I need to Service it, and it's another job on the long list.

 

I fitted my own towbar and electrics to the Jeep, and used Bypass relays, to make sure not to put any load on the Jeeps wiring, so in theory, the jeep will not even know when the caravan is plugged in. I also have a warning light for the trailer indicators, rather than the usual buzzer, as the buzzer in my old car used to drive me crazy when waiting to turn at traffic lights. (is it just me, or do traffic lights take longer to cycle round now?). ?

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Surfer asks "Do you tow with your Jeep and if you do when using the indicators do you get a loud chime?"

We don't see or hear anything from the Jeep when using the indicators, with either the caravan or the boat. I'm not sure whether this is a fault, though, since we check all the lights after every hitch-up, I am not particularly worried. The wiring was installed by a Jeep dealer, using an FCA supplied kit, but wasn't factory fitted. The rear parking sensors aren't disabled, but the rear fog lamps are, when the 'van is connected.

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16 minutes ago, Gerald F said:

Surfer asks "Do you tow with your Jeep and if you do when using the indicators do you get a loud chime?"

We don't see or hear anything from the Jeep when using the indicators, with either the caravan or the boat. I'm not sure whether this is a fault, though, since we check all the lights after every hitch-up, I am not particularly worried. The wiring was installed by a Jeep dealer, using an FCA supplied kit, but wasn't factory fitted. The rear parking sensors aren't disabled, but the rear fog lamps are, when the 'van is connected.

Not sure how old your Jeep is, but you may find that a problem when it goes for an MOT. By law, you have to have a trailer indicator "Tell Tail", which can be in the form of a buzzer, or a light. On some of my previous cars, there was a light built into the dash board for the trailer, but there does not seem to be one on my Jeep. As I said previously, the Buzzer can be very annoying if you have to have the indicators on for any length of time, so I went for a light. On most towing kits, the buzzer is built into the relay, which tends to mounted in the back, with the other electrics, so it might just be a case that with the jeeps great sound proofing, you just can't hear it.

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You may be right about the soundproofing; it has passed two MOTs, at different test centres. I'll check the indicators again next month, when we pick up the caravan, which lives in Spain.The car is an early 2015 Overland.

Our old WK had a relay system (which I installed), and made a very quiet cheeping sound when connected. I had put the relay in a sealed box next to the spare wheel.  The ZJ 'clicked', and I can't remember what the WG did; we rarely towed anything with it.

Edited by Gerald F
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10 hours ago, LazyFerret said:

Not sure how old your Jeep is, but you may find that a problem when it goes for an MOT. By law, you have to have a trailer indicator "Tell Tail", which can be in the form of a buzzer, or a light. On some of my previous cars, there was a light built into the dash board for the trailer, but there does not seem to be one on my Jeep. As I said previously, the Buzzer can be very annoying if you have to have the indicators on for any length of time, so I went for a light. On most towing kits, the buzzer is built into the relay, which tends to mounted in the back, with the other electrics, so it might just be a case that with the jeeps great sound proofing, you just can't hear it.

It is a 2013 Overland Summit so not too old.  Is yours also the newer WK?  The nose is not a buzzer but a loud chime.  We had the chime on the Shogun also.  I cannot recall if there was a on the 2005 WK but somehow I do not think so.  At the last MOT it did not have a tow bar and next MOT is only due in Oct 2019.  Not sure how they would test the electrics on a MOT as they cannot remove any covers.  We have a detachable tow bar and the electrics can be pushed up so that they are hidden.  Fitter will be checking it out within the next 10 days.

 

BTW our local Gloucestershire Caravan Club support the Gloucestershire 4X4 club so raise cash at various rallies so not sure if you belong to the same 4x4 club?

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10 hours ago, Surfer said:

It is a 2013 Overland Summit so not too old.  Is yours also the newer WK?  The nose is not a buzzer but a loud chime.  We had the chime on the Shogun also.  I cannot recall if there was a on the 2005 WK but somehow I do not think so.  At the last MOT it did not have a tow bar and next MOT is only due in Oct 2019.  Not sure how they would test the electrics on a MOT as they cannot remove any covers.  We have a detachable tow bar and the electrics can be pushed up so that they are hidden.  Fitter will be checking it out within the next 10 days.

 

BTW our local Gloucestershire Caravan Club support the Gloucestershire 4X4 club so raise cash at various rallies so not sure if you belong to the same 4x4 club?

Mine is a 2011, but still the later WK2 shape. I only asked the age of yours, in case it was new enough not to need an MOT yet.

 

I don't cover my towing socket, I read somewhere that it can keep the damp in, and cause premature corrosion and connection issues, but could be handy to know should I have a problem with the socket, and need to put the car in for an MOT. ? Now you mention it though, on one of my MOT's, they did mention on the MOT cert that they could not check the towbar, as it had a cover on, which I thought was just being lazy, as it's only a normal rubber boot.

 

I will be interested to know what the fitter makes of yours, so do please let me know.

 

I am with South East 4x4 Response, we are a Charity that covers Kent. We used to cover the other local counties, hence the "South East" name, but as we got bigger, and started to work with the local services, it was easier to have a group for each county. We could then have MOU's and be vetted by Kent police, to work directly with them, which in turn means we can also work with other Kent services, like health authorities, etc. We also support Kent Search and Rescue on a lot of their call outs.

 

I would imagine the Gloucestershire group are pretty much the same, but not all 4x4 Response groups are also Charities, or even have MOU's with their local authorities yet.

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According to a South African 4x4 forum where 4x4 vehicles get really thrashed, if the caravan has LED lights this may cause the issue.  TBH I have no idea if the caravan has LED lights as it is a 2018 model.

 

Here is a video of them taking a caravan up Baboon's pass in Lesotho in southern Africa.  A great achievement if you can get over it.     If you do a search in Youtube there are other videos of the notorious Baboons Pass.  I have only been into Lesotho once for a brief visit. Enjoy! 

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3 hours ago, Surfer said:

According to a South African 4x4 forum where 4x4 vehicles get really thrashed, if the caravan has LED lights this may cause the issue.  TBH I have no idea if the caravan has LED lights as it is a 2018 model.

 

Here is a video of them taking a caravan up Baboon's pass in Lesotho in southern Africa.  A great achievement if you can get over it.     If you do a search in Youtube there are other videos of the notorious Baboons Pass.  I have only been into Lesotho once for a brief visit. Enjoy! 

Generally, if they fit LED lights to a trailer in the UK, the indicators have either a 25W or 50W  6.8ohm resistor in parallel with each indicator LED bulb, so that to the car, it still looks like a normal 21w drawing 1.75Amps 

 

If the bulbs have been changed to LED's, and it was not designed to have them, the resistor is easy enough to retro fit (I did it to my caravan) Basically, if the indicator is not drawing 1.75 amp (give or take a small amount)  you will loose the "tell tail" as that is operated by the current draw of the bulb. The idea is, if a bulb is out, it is not drawing the correct current, so the "tell tail" does not work, and you know there is a problem.

 

Watched that video. Looks like a fun place.. Although I am not sure I would class them as "guru's". The Toyota, looked like it had normal road tyres on, and they did not seem to have reduced the pressure at all. It wasn't really "Rock Crawling", just hit it with enough speed, and hope that the momentum carried them over.

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I was doing some stuff to the jeep today, and upon removing the front bumper, I found this trapped in a recess...

 

20190331_220212.jpg

 

Does this mean I am down some horse power? ?

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On 25/01/2019 at 12:09, LazyFerret said:

Thanks...

 

I have not found any wiring diagrams for my WK2 yet, so I am having to meter everything. Also, with the CANBUS, I tend not to just tap in to things unless I know they are up for the job, as it is too easy to upset things which don't always show up from the go... I can only find a permanent 12v supply up there, not a switched one. That is why I fitted the rear Relay/fuse panel, so I can run my own wiring safe in the knowledge the Jeep does not have any knowledge of it.

 

My late Father built and designed fruit machines, and when he passed on, he had over the years accumulated lots of rolls of different cables, and Molex/AMP connectors, which were used for making the wiring looms for the machines. The great thing was, the machines had loads of the old tungsten bulbs flashing so needed hefty wiring, which makes the cables perfect for most car jobs. I acquired these, so it means I have a good selection of different coloured wires and multi pole connectors, plus all the crimp tools, to do these jobs to a profesional standard... Better in fact, as I am not against the cock.. One roll of cable was a 50 meter 12core cable that was wrongly supplied, and was too thick for their requirements, but perfect for the car. I ran a length of this from the back of the car to the front, and then when pulling the video cables through, I took some of the cores up to the roof console, to give me a switched feed, and the trailer repeater light up there, plus a couple of spares for future expansion..

 

I will also be fitting a second relay/fuse box under the bonnet, so I can wire up my spot lights, air horn, and other odds and sods. I have taken a switch 12v feed off of the socket in the dash, and fed that into a relay, so again the only extra load on the Jeeps wiring is the relay coil.

 

Still have a bit of wiring to do, but I think I might wait for warmer weather before doing much more, as I got truly cold right through out there yesterday. It's not a quick job taking parts of the head lining down, and once you start, you can't just stop, especially as I needed the car for my Welding course in the evening.

Liking the USB connection for your dashcam. I have a workshop manual for the grand Cherokee wk2 on PDF, this has wiring diagrams in it, I could send you a copy of you like. 

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9 hours ago, Derek said:

Liking the USB connection for your dashcam. I have a workshop manual for the grand Cherokee wk2 on PDF, this has wiring diagrams in it, I could send you a copy of you like. 

That would be very nice of you. I'll PM you my email address.

 

Edited to add...

 

I can't PM now they have changed the board.

Edited by LazyFerret
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