Continuous Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) on pre-1996 4.0L

[V]

Has anyone on here replaced any CCV components on their pre-1996 4.0L recently? What parts did you buy?

 

The older CCV system can be identified by an aluminium valve cover, the later design has a steel valve cover. A lot of the original parts are no longer available as Mopar or pattern parts. I can get a ZJ vacuum hose set that can be adapted but neither of the valve cover elbows are available. One of these is specific to 1992-1993 models which I need. Dorman make an elbow that is claimed to fit the valve cover air-cleaner port but the stated Mopar compatible part nunber for it doesn't match what is listed in my Mopar parts diagram.

 

I am thinking about changing the aluminium valve cover for a late model steel cover. The plastic CCV valves and their large grommets are still available for these even if the rest of the vacuum hoses aren't. I have seen a few used steel valve covers on eBay but most appear to be sold without the valve cover bolts, sleeves and the special caps for the small grommets. Has anyone done this upgrade?

[digger]

I don't know if any of this will help.

On the YJ (94) the parts seem ok so I haven't messed with them other than cleaning etc. However the pipework has all changed which I had to do to accommodate   my new air cleaner location etc. ASH helped with  the pipes. 

I could have a look in my scrappie if you would like next week.

I didn't know that steel was an upgrade , I assumed it was the opposite  for cost reasons. I felt I could polish the cover plus Aluminium loses more heat !

Dorman part nos are confusing. I had this with a couple of their products. Eg the new wheel lugs were good quality and reasonable price. However it was a game finding out that they were correct ones. I was led to believe that they were in fact what was supplied for Rubicons!

I'm sure you know the mod that seriously improves your emissions!!

[V]

7 hours ago, digger said:

I didn't know that steel was an upgrade , I assumed it was the opposite  for cost reasons. I felt I could polish the cover plus Aluminium loses more heat !

The later steel valve cover has an improved internal baffle that minimizes the amount of oil vapour entering the air-box and dirtying the throttle body innards. It also keeps the CCV pintle valve operating cleaner too. The stamped aluminium and moulded silicon rubber gasket is more expensive (£30) but is of a fixed form and easier to install than the flexible cork gasket of the earlier model.

 

7 hours ago, digger said:

I could have a look in my scrappie if you would like next week.

Yes please. Finding one with all of the bolts/studs, grommets, grommet caps (cupped washers) and tubular spacers is proving to be difficult. I don't really want to open up my 2001 this year to look inside the valve cover. It may be possible to modify an older aluminium cover to take the newer style CCV elbows and grommets and recreate the new baffle arrangement.

 

The after-market aluminium 4.0L covers that I have seen that cost £200 appear to be based on the later style. I could buy a new after-market valve cover but I would rather put that money towards an aluminium TIG welding machine.

 

What I don't know is if an older 7120 head can accept a valve cover from a 0630 or 0331 head. I assume it can, otherwise the Chinese 0331 wouldn't work as a 7120 replacement which they are often claimed to be. My worry is that the bolt locations or sizes are different.

[digger]

Ok I'll go and have a look. It will probably have to be Wednesday. I'll ring you from the yard if there are any 4.0L s. Tomorrow looks horrible weather and I'm out on Tuesday, after Wednesday, Gary and his wife are coming for a few days. 

I'm interested in you wanting a  TIG. I know little about it really .

However when I bought my  replacement  kit, the vendor said ''maybe you should consider a TIG'' as he knew I could gas weld. However its a long time ago that I did a lot of 'gassing'. I use it for heating and brazing.  The main thing I've done is good old Arc(stick) but it was impossible with anything thinner than about 2mm. I went for my machine because it seemed very versatile. Its simple to switch from MIG to Stick. The MIG  welds incredibly thin steel, almost paper thin , It can also be used for Alloy welding but you have to buy a spool gun(£100 when I bought the machine).  Obviously you have to use Argon as well which is a bit more costly than mix. I used to use CO2 a lot but its not as good as  mix. I can also buy a TIG setup to use with mine

I expect you know a lot more about it than me, however if the kit is new to you, you might like to have a chat about automatic masks with which I've had a lot of trouble with. It was only when I asked an old friend , who is a recently retired  specialist welding engineer that I learn't about the cobblers the sales guys tell you which can lead to serious eye damage, which was happening to me!