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Cherokee KJ rear axle spares help needed


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  • Platinum Member

Does anyone have a pinion yoke for a 2002-2004 Cherokee KJ please? 

This part has 27 internal splines and fits a chrysler 8.25 axle and connects to a 1330 universal joint with straps. (note it has nothing to do with whether the 8.25 has 27 0r 29 spline axle shafts. This doesn't matter) A 1330 u/j has 27mm diameter bearing caps and is 92mm width overall across the caps.

If anyone has one or an axle with one please get in touch. Also if you know of anyone breaking this model and years please let me know!


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Sorry, I don't have a KJ 8.25" pinion yoke but my parts info says that this axle had three 27 spline yoke variants using 1310, 7260 and 7290 u-joints.


The Dana 35 equipped KJ had a 26 spline yoke that used a 1330 u-joint.


Do you currently have a 1330 propshaft and a 1310 yoke? If so, you can use a conversion u-joint which is 1310 on one trunnion pair and 1330 on the other - Dana 5-134X

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Hi V, thanks for your reply especially as I'm a bit confused about U/J sizes here. I have no idea whether KJs had 1330s or not really, only that the part nos below refer to 1330s. They may have been a method of changing the size,who knows. Getting the 'on the ground, will they fit together info' is the difficulty!


As you know part of my regearing the YJ is to fit a chrysler 8.25 into the rear which has  the gearing I need etc.

Fitting the axle in is well on the way now but I have dropped a clanger!  My YJ is '94. My research suggested that I had 1310 U/Js. However I have found that the last models made ,(including mine!) were fitted with 1330(?) U/JS. The issue is that, the Chrysler axle I have has a 1310 U/J yoke which is smaller as you know.

My research(I'm not the best with tech) suggests the following options and my conclusions. I would appreciate your views if you would please?


1. It seemed the larger 1330 joint would be better so the easiest simplest was to find a different yoke. These appear to have been made by Chrysler for the KJ 2002-4 part no C52070345 . Then Yukon started doing them part no YY C52070345 AA. Both of these appear to be obsolete. Mopar still list the part, but as 'no longer available'!  Lots of companies still offer the Yukon part but its not in stock and they don't know if they can get one. Yukon didn't reply but 'Summit Racing' (have bought /dealt with them before and they have been very good)  replied  saying they have been in touch with Yukon.  They said, Yukon say' none in stock will not be making more!' None the less I have tried with both of these part nos to find either on the shelf (new or used)any where on the planet, so far with no luck despite many businesses advertising them!   My next step was to be ,'try and identify totally different vehicles with the correct yoke'


2. Your idea has come up and I'm very grateful that you have suggested it!  I discounted it over point one because of some criticism on the net suggesting that the 1310 was too weak(its a 1310 that broke in my front driveshaft which was in mind too!).  However I couldn't find out ''with what set up?'' It is is certainly the simplest and cheapest option.

In your opinion will it be ok with my setup which I believe will be :-  29 spline 8.25 with 4.1 ratio, open diff (or maybe Eaton LSD in future) and 33(most likely) or 35  12.50 tyres(currently 31/10.50)?


3. Fit the flat circular type 'yoke' flange from a KJ and get my  prop modified to fit. Cost not too bad but may involve SYE kit as well.  Although so far no vibration probs and my new pinion angle is 0.3 degrees better than before so fingers crossed!

Maybe use a suitable used propshaft from another Jeep model with 1330s and adjust length as in 3 to fit the round flange. A KJ prop possibly if its longer than mine?

4. Find (?) an earlier YJ prop with 1310s.


Ps thanks too for suggesting I should order more than one crush sleeve! I have had to remove the pinion again to measure it etc because of this problem! 

If you would still like my front xj axle  my offer stands. Just pm me, I will send details  and we can sort getting it to you! Where are you now?

















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All of my XJ propshafts have 1310 u-joints. I don't have the data sheets to hand, but I am fairly certain that the 1310 has a larger operating angle per rpm than the 1330. The 1310 is a better for articulation. The 1330 is about 14% stronger than the 1310 at zero degrees of angular operation.


I haven't experienced a catastrophic failure of a 1310 propshaft u-joint, but I have caught a fair number as the u-joints were going bad. I can usually hear when a cap is failing as the u-joint will clunk when shifting into gear from neutral. A propshaft u-joint is easier to repair in the field than an axle shaft u-joint so I'm quite happy that this is the fuse in my driveline. The added advantage is that all my propshaft u-joints are the same so I only need to carry three spare onboard.


Have you measured the distance between the cup tabs on the propshaft yoke? The size will determine the u-joint that you need.

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