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UKTJ

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Hi all

 

New member from Hampshire.  Owned my TJ for some time, never looked to take it off road but hoping to do so now.  Will no doubt need lots of advice and help, so thanks in advance!

 

UKTJ

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spookie the aardvark
27 minutes ago, UKTJ said:

Hi all

 

New member from Hampshire.  Owned my TJ for some time, never looked to take it off road but hoping to do so now.  Will no doubt need lots of advice and help, so thanks in advance!

 

UKTJ

Hi and a warm welcome to the club 👋👍

Where abouts in Hampshire are you?

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Thanks very much.

I'm in Eversley right on the Hampshire / Bershire border.  Aldermaston will be about a half hour drive for me.

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24 minutes ago, AlexK said:

Ask away.

 

Oh, and pics?

Not got any great pictures, certainly no action shots, but here is my little silver TJ.

image.thumb.png.648f477d65b65b19c39cb47e08c134dd.png

 

I have never done any work on cars before.  But recently I bought myself a socket set and jumped in.  This is after I did my first work on it.  I added a 1" body lift and new 1" raised motor mounts as well as removing the side steps you see on the floor.  I've also just fitted a steering box skid - that was a bit of a nightmare as a RHD one was hard to find and then when I did find one (Terraflex) there appear to be no instructions, which is a pain as the fitment is not just the LHD in mirror image.  But I got there.

Edited by UKTJ
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Welcome aboard1 Gr8 to have another TJ in the club. Interested in spannering as well!  I think its gr8 when people are prepared to'have a go'. Its how I started  yrs ago!  There's plenty of us on here who can offer help if you need some.

Not sure what sort of side bars they are ie. tough of not from the pic.! Whilst I had off roaded a fair bit before, the first time I took my YJ I nearly slid into a tree(my fault) which is when I remembered how rare they are now.  As a result my first need had to be side rails! Just a thought!

I'm sure you will enjoy Aldermarston there's something for all!  Look forward to seeing you.

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Great to have you in the club. Ask away as you can see, our members are a very friendly and knowledgeable bunch.

You have a very nice looking TJ

Welcome to the club.

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1 hour ago, digger said:

Welcome aboard1 Gr8 to have another TJ in the club. Interested in spannering as well!  I think its gr8 when people are prepared to'have a go'. Its how I started  yrs ago!  There's plenty of us on here who can offer help if you need some.

Not sure what sort of side bars they are ie. tough of not from the pic.! Whilst I had off roaded a fair bit before, the first time I took my YJ I nearly slid into a tree(my fault) which is when I remembered how rare they are now.  As a result my first need had to be side rails! Just a thought!

I'm sure you will enjoy Aldermarston there's something for all!  Look forward to seeing you.

If I thought they would be functional I would have been tempted to keep them, but to my thinking they were more bling rather than being a functional rocker guard or slider.  I am pretty sure they are aluminium (but not a structural grade) and pretty thin, but I may be wrong.  They were also pretty low hung, which would not help ground clearance.  I have kept all the brackets, fixings, etc. so I could always stick them back on if it turns out taking them off was a bad call.

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1 hour ago, JimC said:

Great to have you in the club. Ask away as you can see, our members are a very friendly and knowledgeable bunch.

You have a very nice looking TJ

Welcome to the club.

Feeling very welcome already!

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18 hours ago, V said:

Nice TJ. Is it an automatic, 5-speed or 6-speed?

It's a 4.0 5 speed manual (NV3550).

Unfortunately it has 3.07 gears, which means when I get bigger tyres it will definitely need regearing, but I am hoping I will be able to delay on that long enough to get lockers done at the same time.

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I had the 6sp and even with 31" tyres I could not use the 6th gear.  

What size you considering ?

Edited by Arno
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Hi , my Yj has the same useless ratio 3.07 with 31s.  The 5th gear is only really usable once you get up to 60 plus and then she soon runs out of puff!  All the gears are lethargic and the engine's inability to hold the car downhill in forward low is fun !  In reverse its downright hairy. I stalled on a very steep incline at Slindon and despite correctly restarting in reverse the car just ran away back down ( and I know my engine is good). I've got all my material parts now for a regear and happen to have started work on the replacement rear  axle today (the Dana 35 stock rear axle can be  feeble with some setups) although I don't plan to take the car 'off the road' until after October to finish the job.

One of the issues is what tyre size you are going to go to. Its difficult to find suitable tyre sizes especially if you do not want to go very wide. Personally I prefer narrower for off road. My 31s are 31x10.50x15 and that's as wide as I want to go but I would like 33"to 35" O/D.   Best to look first and include this decision in your calculations and needs. Here's a typical chart below.

https://www.quadratec.com/c/reference/best-gear-ratio-when-adding-larger-tires

If you are thinking of DIY then I can't recommend it . It is not simple unless you have engineering and mechanical experience along with an extensive tool kit. 

However if you want more info then I and others I'm sure will be pleased to help . There are some good charts on the net showing tyre size versus ratio and the results etc

Hope this helps.

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1 hour ago, Arno said:

I had the 6sp and even with 31" tyres I could not use the 6th gear.  

What size you considering ?

I have heard that 6th in the six speed is very long and sensitive to any tyre size increase.  I am looking to go 33s, so think I will need to regear to 4.56 or possibly 4.88.

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2 hours ago, digger said:

Hi , my Yj has the same useless ratio 3.07 with 31s.  The 5th gear is only really usable once you get up to 60 plus and then she soon runs out of puff!  All the gears are lethargic and the engine's inability to hold the car downhill in forward low is fun !  In reverse its downright hairy. I stalled on a very steep incline at Slindon and despite correctly restarting in reverse the car just ran away back down ( and I know my engine is good). I've got all my material parts now for a regear and happen to have started work on the replacement rear  axle today (the Dana 35 stock rear axle can be  feeble with some setups) although I don't plan to take the car 'off the road' until after October to finish the job.

One of the issues is what tyre size you are going to go to. Its difficult to find suitable tyre sizes especially if you do not want to go very wide. Personally I prefer narrower for off road. My 31s are 31x10.50x15 and that's as wide as I want to go but I would like 33"to 35" O/D.   Best to look first and include this decision in your calculations and needs. Here's a typical chart below.

https://www.quadratec.com/c/reference/best-gear-ratio-when-adding-larger-tires

If you are thinking of DIY then I can't recommend it . It is not simple unless you have engineering and mechanical experience along with an extensive tool kit. 

However if you want more info then I and others I'm sure will be pleased to help . There are some good charts on the net showing tyre size versus ratio and the results etc

Hope this helps.

I think it would be a very long time before I would take on a regear, almost definitely never.  You have my absolute respect if that is something you are happy taking on!

My plan is for a c.2.5" lift using OME springs, which in combination with the 1" body lift I have already fitted should give room for up to 33" tyres.  This will (hopefully) keep me below the level where I will need to go straight to an SYE and DC driveshaft, especially as the motor mount lift I fitted will help correct the driveline angle, with that hopefully I will not even need to drop the tranmission skid.

I am currently mulling over whether to keep my stock wheels or change them.  The stock wheels on my TJ are a 16" x 7" with 5.25" of backspacing I believe.  So, unless I change them or add some spacers I would be limited on tyre width, both in terms of the width of the wheels and the potential for interference on full lock.  If I do keep these wheels then I would probably look at something like 255 x 85 x 16, which is roughly 33 x 10".  If I change wheels I would likely look for something with no more than 4" of backspacing which would give more scope for wider tyres.

From that base if I ever decided I wanted to splash the cash and move to 35s I guess I would do the SYE and DC driveshaft plus putting on adjustable control arms.  I probably look to go with a replacement highline fender rather than getting taler springs.  But I fear anything more than 33s may mean ot being able to get into the garage at home, so I think it unlikely.

 

What are you replacing the rear Dana 35 with, a Dana 44?  I have read some positive comments on US forums about a so called Super 35, I think the main component part of that is swaping out the axle shafts for chromoly ones.

Edited by UKTJ
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 I got my TJ to go in my garage. The Jeep had a Clayton long arm 5" lift and 35x12.50R15 tyres. The garage was standard 7ft door height, but side hung doors and a flat and level entrance. I think I aired down a little. Only did it once before the ex stuffed the garage full of furniture that she wouldn't look at for another 10 years. If my garage had an up and over door the TJ would not have got in even with a spare set of 'garage' wheels with 27" tyres.

 

The 'Super35' was originally a kit from Superior Axle & Gear that had 30-spline ChroMo shafts and a new 30-spline Detroit Locker. Yukon have since filled the void following the demise of Superior and now have their own similar kit the 'Ultimate 35'. Unless your Jeep has ABS and you really want to keep it that way, there is little reason to stay with the Dana 35. It is far better to spend the money upgrading a better axle.

 

Some years ago before the government got rid of a large number of vehicles with the scrappage scheme. It was quite easy to find a Chrysler 8.25" from a 2.5L petrol XJ or a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer. Sadly it is getting harder to find them in the UK at reasonable prices. It is not impossible, you just have to spend more time looking for the right deal. The 8.25 is almost as strong as a D44 and a built 8.8 can be as strong as a D60. There are various commercial vehicle sources for D44 axles in the UK but most of them need some re-engineering for use on a Jeep, it's often cheaper to build a housing from scratch or start with a US made bare housing if you really want a D44.

 

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6 hours ago, UKTJ said:

It's a 4.0 5 speed manual (NV3550).

 

What's the gearbox like from a cold start? Is it slightly sticky holding on to 1st gear when you shift to 2nd, and the same from 2nd to 3rd? If so, is it OK shifting in all gears when warm? Hopefully you don't have these symptoms. I have only known it to occur on NV3550 TJs that are regularly driven in low ratio. It is such a rare fault that nobody could prove a root cause. The theory was that spending all day in low ratio on a Saturday and Sunday would mean the Jeep would be running a hotter average engine temperature than if it were motorway cruising in high ratio. If high engine temperature was the cause, running all day with a mud caked radiator didn't help.

 

Some of the first NV3550 equipped TJ's that spent a lot of time off-road in low ratio would develop a warped flywheel. At the time I knew of three others than mine that had to replace their NV3550, all off-roaders. One guy replaced two transmissions before he thankfully discovered the fault and passed on the info. The warped flywheel would straighten out a little at normal operating temperature but was most noticeable with a slight amount of clutch drag when cold. The warp would not allow the clutch to fully disengage with the pedal to the floor. Consequently, the barely noticeable condition gradually got worse over time as each journey from a cold start would cause wear on the 1st and 2nd gear synchros. Before I replaced my transmission it was almost impossible to shift from neutral to 1st, or 1st to 2nd in winter without letting the Jeep idle to operating temperature in the driveway.

 

The problem was resolved permanently by ditching the stock flywheel and clutch. I upgraded to a Hesco aluminium flywheel with an XJ AW4 flexplate for the ring gear. The new clutch was a competition kevlar clutch that was far better for slipping when rock crawling. I also had to move the crank position sensor to the flywheel (another Hesco kit) I bought a brand new replacement NV3550 and sold my worn out one to a gearbox builder a month later. I never had the cold start clutch drag problem again. I prefer automatics for off-roading but if I ever built another manual I would use a kevlar clutch again.

 

There's one more thing with the NV3550, it needs special oil - Mopar 4874464, use anything else at your peril.

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10 hours ago, V said:

 

What's the gearbox like from a cold start? Is it slightly sticky holding on to 1st gear when you shift to 2nd, and the same from 2nd to 3rd? If so, is it OK shifting in all gears when warm? Hopefully you don't have these symptoms. I have only known it to occur on NV3550 TJs that are regularly driven in low ratio. It is such a rare fault that nobody could prove a root cause. The theory was that spending all day in low ratio on a Saturday and Sunday would mean the Jeep would be running a hotter average engine temperature than if it were motorway cruising in high ratio. If high engine temperature was the cause, running all day with a mud caked radiator didn't help.

 

Some of the first NV3550 equipped TJ's that spent a lot of time off-road in low ratio would develop a warped flywheel. At the time I knew of three others than mine that had to replace their NV3550, all off-roaders. One guy replaced two transmissions before he thankfully discovered the fault and passed on the info. The warped flywheel would straighten out a little at normal operating temperature but was most noticeable with a slight amount of clutch drag when cold. The warp would not allow the clutch to fully disengage with the pedal to the floor. Consequently, the barely noticeable condition gradually got worse over time as each journey from a cold start would cause wear on the 1st and 2nd gear synchros. Before I replaced my transmission it was almost impossible to shift from neutral to 1st, or 1st to 2nd in winter without letting the Jeep idle to operating temperature in the driveway.

 

The problem was resolved permanently by ditching the stock flywheel and clutch. I upgraded to a Hesco aluminium flywheel with an XJ AW4 flexplate for the ring gear. The new clutch was a competition kevlar clutch that was far better for slipping when rock crawling. I also had to move the crank position sensor to the flywheel (another Hesco kit) I bought a brand new replacement NV3550 and sold my worn out one to a gearbox builder a month later. I never had the cold start clutch drag problem again. I prefer automatics for off-roading but if I ever built another manual I would use a kevlar clutch again.

 

There's one more thing with the NV3550, it needs special oil - Mopar 4874464, use anything else at your peril.

very interesting reading Vince, i am having similar problems with my TJ, regarding gear changes, i am changing the clutch soon, and will see what the flywheel is like at the same time.

Mine has a high pinion D30 from an XK, with WJ grand Cherokee Brakes and hubs.

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19 hours ago, V said:

 

What's the gearbox like from a cold start? Is it slightly sticky holding on to 1st gear when you shift to 2nd, and the same from 2nd to 3rd? If so, is it OK shifting in all gears when warm? Hopefully you don't have these symptoms. I have only known it to occur on NV3550 TJs that are regularly driven in low ratio. It is such a rare fault that nobody could prove a root cause. The theory was that spending all day in low ratio on a Saturday and Sunday would mean the Jeep would be running a hotter average engine temperature than if it were motorway cruising in high ratio. If high engine temperature was the cause, running all day with a mud caked radiator didn't help.

 

Some of the first NV3550 equipped TJ's that spent a lot of time off-road in low ratio would develop a warped flywheel. At the time I knew of three others than mine that had to replace their NV3550, all off-roaders. One guy replaced two transmissions before he thankfully discovered the fault and passed on the info. The warped flywheel would straighten out a little at normal operating temperature but was most noticeable with a slight amount of clutch drag when cold. The warp would not allow the clutch to fully disengage with the pedal to the floor. Consequently, the barely noticeable condition gradually got worse over time as each journey from a cold start would cause wear on the 1st and 2nd gear synchros. Before I replaced my transmission it was almost impossible to shift from neutral to 1st, or 1st to 2nd in winter without letting the Jeep idle to operating temperature in the driveway.

 

The problem was resolved permanently by ditching the stock flywheel and clutch. I upgraded to a Hesco aluminium flywheel with an XJ AW4 flexplate for the ring gear. The new clutch was a competition kevlar clutch that was far better for slipping when rock crawling. I also had to move the crank position sensor to the flywheel (another Hesco kit) I bought a brand new replacement NV3550 and sold my worn out one to a gearbox builder a month later. I never had the cold start clutch drag problem again. I prefer automatics for off-roading but if I ever built another manual I would use a kevlar clutch again.

 

There's one more thing with the NV3550, it needs special oil - Mopar 4874464, use anything else at your peril.

Very interesting post. No transmission issues, but I suspect the TJ has spent all its life in 2wd on road.

In terms of the transmission oil, is there a good UK source?  A quick online search has not given me an answer.

Edited by UKTJ
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Because it is a Mopar product, you are most likely to find it at a franchised Jeep dealership parts counter. Don't be tempted to use any oil that claims compatibility. This also applies to the NSG370 6-speed.

 

I have seen the Mopar oil on Amazon, but it is often out of stock.

 

Franchised Jeep dealerships in the USA are forbidden from exporting parts to customers. However, there are many independent Mopar parts specialists in the USA that will ship to the UK. I haven't used any for a long time, the company that used often 20 years ago ceased trading a while back.

 

One UK supplier you could try is Lighthouse Jeep in Diss, Norfolk.

 

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Welcome and yep been there with the trans issues- 2001 TJ here. had it rebuilt, running a centre force clutch and flywheel, running amsoil fluid not mopar and have zero issues. As long as it has the correct additives i dont think there is an issue if you run after market oil. TBH there are thousands in the US that run various oils and yet dont have issues.

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Hi, re the axle I'm using.

V is correct in guessing that it came from an XJ. I had  been trying to find a Dana 44 for over a year with no luck other than one which was unsuitable in that I would have had to spend a lot on it to use it plus all the other work.My research suggested there was little  difference between Dana 44 and Chrysler 29 spline for what I want.  By chance a couple of months ago I came across an XJ which had been stood in a field for years with a terminal engine which was being scrapped that week.It was a 2.5l manual petrol and seemingly low mileage.  It had a corporate (29 Spline ) Chrysler 8.25 rear with 4.10 ratios which happened to be what I wanted.  Off came the diff covers to have a good look and the axles came out for a sensible price! The rear will be a complete replacement once rebuilt and the front Dana 30 diff etc I shall rebuild into the one in the existing YJ axle. So far I've stripped both axles and have started on the Chrysler, cutting off perches(and welding up nicks ) , cleaning ,painting etc.  I thought the whole process might be of interest so I'm taking pics etc and in due course will do a write up. It will be quite a long  process as I work slow, short hours  these days!

 

Thanks too to V and others who told me about the water sand blaster attachments. I bought one on EBAY. It works gr8 but would be better I guess with amore powerful  PW (mines a Karcher K4) as it was a bit slow! I just had a bit of power sanding in odd places after.

V , I am interested in why you fitted an alloy flywheel. Was this not a lighter flywheel? I have fitted /lightened many flywheels to release RPM in motor racing but my thoughts for the 4.0l would be to increase the weight so as to up the torque at the bottom end!

 

 

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I didn't dyno the TJ but the lighter flywheel worked very well with the 4.0L i6. I had the same concern about losing what I like about the Jeep 4.0L, but Hesco assured me that I would like the end result and I did. It didn't feel any less torquey but felt quicker reacting on the throttle. My ex used the hand throttle that I installed on the TJ and she got very proficient with it rock crawling. Considering that the engine had zero performance tweaks, every gain was done in gearing, driveline and suspension. The TJ felt that it had more than a stock 4.0L inside and I think that that was probably due to the flywheel and clutch.

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