Platinum Member AlexHaywood Posted June 18, 2021 Platinum Member Share Posted June 18, 2021 Hello forum, I wonder if anyone could help me? After 55,000kms my Engine somehow blew up (injectors melted). So... I need to find an engine to replace it. I went to my local Jeep dealer here in Malaga, 22k invoice came back, clearly that is madness (don't ask me about Jeep themselves). So... I am looking for an Engine for my 2017 Wrangler to get her going again, could anyone here help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted June 19, 2021 Platinum Member Share Posted June 19, 2021 what engine is it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member V Posted June 19, 2021 Platinum Member Share Posted June 19, 2021 'Blew up'? Can you be more precise. Has it thrown a rod through the crankcase? Cracked cylinder heads? Seized the crankshaft? If it is a VM Motori A 428 DOHC diesel engine, it sounds like piezoelectric injectors running on low quality diesel but that wouldn't cause an engine to explode. I believe the 2010-2012 Jeep Cherokee had the same engine, and the 2011-2016 Chrysler Grand Voyager had a 20% less powerful variant. If it is a diesel, it is worth describing the actual problem with VM Diesel Specialist Ltd, they collect and deliver worldwide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member AlexHaywood Posted June 19, 2021 Author Platinum Member Share Posted June 19, 2021 Only thing I can tell you with fact, is the injector heads melted ,causing catastrophic damage to the engine, cockpit filled with steam in a nano second & engine over revved until it died. I will know more in coming days, but thank you very much & I will reach out to them. Thanks for taking the time to reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member AlexHaywood Posted June 19, 2021 Author Platinum Member Share Posted June 19, 2021 Frosty it's the 2.8 CRD Sahara Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member frosty Posted June 20, 2021 Platinum Member Share Posted June 20, 2021 what part of the world are you in, i see you said it has done 55K kilometers, so i presume you are not in UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum Member V Posted June 20, 2021 Platinum Member Share Posted June 20, 2021 So the mechanic that has examined the engine already believes that the injectors melting caused this damage? To me that seems a bit strange considering that there are four injectors. Presumably all four melted simultaneously. Obviously, I haven't seen your engine, but it sounds to me that you had a vampire turbo. This is when the spindle oil seal on the turbo fails and lubricating oil entering the spindle oil gallery under engine oil pump pressure is now forced into the impeller scroll on the intake side of the engine. Being a diesel, this pressurised oil stream acts as additional fuel going into the engine without a throttle control to limit (or stop) it. The engine will rev out to maximum rpm until it blows a head, breaks a piston, throws a rod or seizes when it finally consumes all of the oil left in the sump and there is none left to lubricate the engine. What causes vampire turbos? Burnt oil deposits on the turbo spindle. An after oiler automatically provides lubricating oil to the turbo spindle after the engine has been switched off and until the turbo has cooled. As far as I know, there are no production cars built with after oilers. The lubricating oil burns on to the hot spindle shaft and eventually builds up into an abrasive wearing on the oil seals. Once the seals wear out the damage can be seen if it is on the exhaust side with a smokey exhaust. It is experienced with the vampire turbo effect if it is on the intake side. How can you stop premature seal wear on a turbo? On start up, let the car idle for a minute before driving until oil has warmed. Before shutdown, let the car idle for at least a minute before switching the engine off. If the engine is hot because of high speed driving or driving under load, idle for much longer until the engine is cooler. Idling allows oil going into the turbo to lubricate the turbo shaft that could still be spinning at 10,000rpm when the engine is off. The oil flow to the spindle both lubricates and cools. The exhaust turbine will be the hottest part of the engine. Heat soak on to the spindle shaft has always been a problem. Most people believe that water cooled turbos have solved this but it's a falsehood. The engine still has to be running to provide cooling oil to the spindle and cooling water to the turbo. Stop the engine, and the heat soak still occurs, its just a little slower because of the coolant sitting in the turbo has to turn to steam. Hmm, perhaps that's the steam you saw. Anyway, as I said earlier. I reckon your engine suffered a vampire turbo and all the other damage is a consequence. Sorry, for your loss. Also if you get another turbo charged car with a stop-start system, disable the stop start system until you get a separate thermostatically controlled electric oil pump plumbed in as an after oiler fitted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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