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Newbie from Linc's


LincsLad

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Hi all

 

Moved to Linc's from South East London 6 years ago and into a farming community, wasn't long before I bought my first vintage tractor [plaything] and have owned many defenders.

About a year ago I was offered a 2005 Grand Cherokee from a friend, 4.7L V8 thing with LPG, it's been my daily driver since owning and the Defenders are long gone.

I have been for a while watching "Dirt Every Day" some You Tube program that my Son had downloaded for me and really have a hankering for a Wrangler, so much so that I'm supposed to be buying this, this week  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JEEP-WRANGLER-4-0-MANUAL-MONSTER-7-INCH-LIFT-KIT-2001-46000-MILES-PX-WELCOME/292683454582?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Now I know very little about Wranglers or Jeeps in general, does this one look like it's been done ok? the dealer imported it around a year ago and has kept it for himself, think he's now got bored of it and decided to sell it on.

It has come from Japan with all work carried out there, it will have a full service and years MOT.

Is this a good start? it will clean me out for a while so I need my first to be a good'un.

 

Many thanks guys and great site, can't wait to be part of the community?

 

Brian

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I spent the time to write this because you said you know very little about Wranglers, so here is my opinion, take it or leave it.

 

It looks like another Wrangler lifted more for looks than function by what is missing from the ad, but I could be wrong. If it has bills for the work done it should eliminate doubt.

 

The most significant modification investment in a good lifted Jeep will be in the axles. If it doesn't have the right ring and pinion gearing for the new tyre size then say goodbye to 5th gear or any fuel economy on this Jeep as you will hardly ever have enough power to use 5th gear for long. If it is on 33" tyres it should have 4.56 gears. As 4.56 gears requires new carriers if it doesn't have differential traction aids front and rear that would be very suspicious. A TruTrac or selectable locker in the front and any type of locker or LSD in the rear.

 

It also doesn't look like a 7" suspension lift, and a 7" lift on a TJ would suck in any case. It looks like it has close to 33" tyres so 33" - 27" = 6" difference in tyre diameter from stock which is 3" in 'tyre lift'. With a 4" suspension lift that would make 7". However, looking at the height of the bottom of the front grille in relation to the top of the bumper, this Jeep could have a body lift. Suspension lift is good, more than 1" of body lift not so good. I just looked at the eBay photos. It has a shiny panel at the back concealing the massive gap created by the enormous body lift. The rear bumper is missing. It also doesn't have a rear fog lamp which is required for the IVA and MoT.

 

It has wide flares but the tyres don't look wide enough. Wide flares are usually needed on a 33x12.50 where the tyre is 12.5" wide. The wheels don't look that dished so may not have a big backspacing which could mean it has spacers.

 

It has half doors which are an expensive nice-to-have luxury feature for the summer but full doors are nicer with real glass for the winter.

 

I have no idea on Jeep values any more. A good friend tells me that Jap import TJ's sell for far less than used UK spec models of the same age.

 

In my opinion, for the cheapest way to properly correct this Jeep's modification mistakes to make it drive well on and off road it would need:

  • 30" or 31" tyres with the suspension lift it has with stock gearing. 31" will still lose some use of 5th gear.
  • Stock wheels with 5.25" backspacing or possibly these wheels without spacers
  • Removal of the body lift
  • Removal of wide flares and refitting stock flares as it would look plain odd
  • A new rear bumper
  • A new rear fog lamp
  • JKS Quicker disconnects

To build it properly as an off road Jeep:

  • Bigger front brakes - WJ/WG conversion or VancoPBS if you want to stop with big tyres
  • 4.56 R&P front and rear if you want to preserve the performance and fuel economy of the engine
  • Lockers front and rear
  • Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear propshaft
  • A real 4.5" to 5.5" suspension lift kit, Clayton, AEV(Nth degree) or similar
  • Longer shocks to match the lift kit
  • Longer brake hoses
  • Strong diff covers to increase rigidity of the housings
  • JKS Quicker disconnects, Currie AntiRock or Jeep TJ Rubicon electric swaybar
  • Front and rear recovery points
  • Rear bumper
  • Rear fog lamp

If you test drive it and like it, then it's ultimately your decision to buy it. People make their Jeeps fit their own taste (and budget). For me, safe functional performance comes first.

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Quite a few traders have set themselves up importing TJs from Japan.  I'm sure some are fine, but equally, some are not.  It's easy for a vehicle's history to get 'lost' on the way over, so expect to find zero service history and remember to check carefully for accident damage as that's the first piece of info that goes missing.

 

There are some differences between UK and JDM spec, starting with simple things like no headlight height adjuster, to more important stuff like not having the same level of undersealing and rust prevention.  UK spec always included the stronger rear D44 axle, but I can't recall if JDM spec did too.  Remember the milometer will be in km, not miles.  You would have to declare it to your insurance company as an import and that might affect the premium.

 

Get underneath and check every inch you can for corrosion.  From the limited views available in the photos, the frame doesn't look bad at all, but check the body - top of the front wings is a favourite spot for it to start.

 

Personally, I'm not a fan of the way those flares appear to be screwed into the body along the top edge, and I'm curious what those stuck-on black strips are for - to stand on? Flares are not a structural item so I'd hope not.  I'm amazed it was given an MOT with no rear bumper and, as Vince says, no rear fog light.  To me, the body lift says it probably arrived with much larger tyres which either weren't e-marked or protruded beyond the flares and therefore were changed for a smaller (cheaper) set for the MOT.  I see it failed its first MOT for missing rear seat belts.

 

Lastly, they do appear to be asking strong money for it.  For the same price, you should be able to find a UK spec TJ with a known history without too much trouble.  There's at least one for sale on this forum.

 

Good luck!

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4 hours ago, V said:

I spent the time to write this because you said you know very little about Wranglers, so here is my opinion, take it or leave it.

 

It looks like another Wrangler lifted more for looks than function by what is missing from the ad, but I could be wrong. If it has bills for the work done it should eliminate doubt.

 

The most significant modification investment in a good lifted Jeep will be in the axles. If it doesn't have the right ring and pinion gearing for the new tyre size then say goodbye to 5th gear or any fuel economy on this Jeep as you will hardly ever have enough power to use 5th gear for long. If it is on 33" tyres it should have 4.56 gears. As 4.56 gears requires new carriers if it doesn't have differential traction aids front and rear that would be very suspicious. A TruTrac or selectable locker in the front and any type of locker or LSD in the rear.

 

It also doesn't look like a 7" suspension lift, and a 7" lift on a TJ would suck in any case. It looks like it has close to 33" tyres so 33" - 27" = 6" difference in tyre diameter from stock which is 3" in 'tyre lift'. With a 4" suspension lift that would make 7". However, looking at the height of the bottom of the front grille in relation to the top of the bumper, this Jeep could have a body lift. Suspension lift is good, more than 1" of body lift not so good. I just looked at the eBay photos. It has a shiny panel at the back concealing the massive gap created by the enormous body lift. The rear bumper is missing. It also doesn't have a rear fog lamp which is required for the IVA and MoT.

 

It has wide flares but the tyres don't look wide enough. Wide flares are usually needed on a 33x12.50 where the tyre is 12.5" wide. The wheels don't look that dished so may not have a big backspacing which could mean it has spacers.

 

It has half doors which are an expensive nice-to-have luxury feature for the summer but full doors are nicer with real glass for the winter.

 

I have no idea on Jeep values any more. A good friend tells me that Jap import TJ's sell for far less than used UK spec models of the same age.

 

In my opinion, for the cheapest way to properly correct this Jeep's modification mistakes to make it drive well on and off road it would need:

  • 30" or 31" tyres with the suspension lift it has with stock gearing. 31" will still lose some use of 5th gear.
  • Stock wheels with 5.25" backspacing or possibly these wheels without spacers
  • Removal of the body lift
  • Removal of wide flares and refitting stock flares as it would look plain odd
  • A new rear bumper
  • A new rear fog lamp
  • JKS Quicker disconnects

To build it properly as an off road Jeep:

  • Bigger front brakes - WJ/WG conversion or VancoPBS if you want to stop with big tyres
  • 4.56 R&P front and rear if you want to preserve the performance and fuel economy of the engine
  • Lockers front and rear
  • Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear propshaft
  • A real 4.5" to 5.5" suspension lift kit, Clayton, AEV(Nth degree) or similar
  • Longer shocks to match the lift kit
  • Longer brake hoses
  • Strong diff covers to increase rigidity of the housings
  • JKS Quicker disconnects, Currie AntiRock or Jeep TJ Rubicon electric swaybar
  • Front and rear recovery points
  • Rear bumper
  • Rear fog lamp

If you test drive it and like it, then it's ultimately your decision to buy it. People make their Jeeps fit their own taste (and budget). For me, safe functional performance comes first.

 

Wow! and thanks for taking the time out to post, I needed this and was really hoping someone knowledgeable would come along and help out?

 

I did have a feeling this Jeep was done more for looks than actual performance, a fashion that's also done in the Defender world.

 

Your friend is bang on with Jap imports being cheaper than Brit spec's ones, I have owned several [Toyota Surf and Pajero], 20-25 years ago we were importing 1000's and British car dealers didn't like it, you had nearly new looking Jap motors coming in in almost new condition, low mileage and half the price UK dealers were wanting for theirs. At the time I owned an almost new looking Pajero, top of my head it was about 7 years old and had something like 30k on it, I loved it, chassis was still gleaming black paint, it was my pride and joy then we had a TV program that declared 99% of imports were stolen, I panicked, rushed over to my neighbour/mate  who was a copper and exclaimed, "what's going on" I was told ignore the program, if nearly all the motors were stolen don't you think the police would know about it. To late, damage was done, insurance companies wouldn't insure them, prices plummeted and it killed off a really lucrative business for many years.  I might add here, YES a few were stolen and smuggled in through various routes but no where near the numbers reported.

Jap imports have still been coming in and still come in ship load after ship load and if I had the opportunity I would always buy over a UK motor. It's a small Island with hardly anywhere to go and they don't salt the roads! Low mileage, rust free, RHD, who wouldn't want that? they used to have to scrap engines with 40-50k on them, now they sell them to us☺️

 

Things I have learn't while researching the Jeep:

Tyres are: 235/85 16"s wheels are Japanese Weds, tyres are 31.5" tall so a tyre size calculator tells me.

Rancho suspension lift but nowhere near the 7" as described, the 7" is I'm guessing and as you pointed out an overall lift [tyres,suspension,body lift]

Body lift looks really high, almost unstable to me! I'm guessing this has been done to stop tyres hitting  arches? pic of lift bushes below

Yes shiny metal plate on rear hides at least a 3" gap between body and chassis, personally I'd prefer the gap.

Rear bumper missing bugged me as well.

I hadn't noticed the rear fog light missing, wonder how he got round that for MOT?

Half doors I didn't like, great in a hot country but as you say, not a lot of use over here.

JKS Quicker disconnects, I didn't know what these were so have just had a quick look?

 

On your "quick fix" list there's not to much needs doing really, I thought it was going to be a lot worse to be honest. Some of your list is almost cosmetic [I was always taught wheels spacers weren't a good idea, mind you I'm old]. Body lift one is a cause for concern as it may give clearance issue's meaning smaller wheels, not a lot of point buying this if I have to put it back to almost stock!

 

All your other more serious point's i.e. axle gearing etc I would assume nothings been done, it's all stock other than what you can see. You get very little if any history on these imported cars so if you can't see it!

 

From what a couple of months research [mostly ebay] the price isn't bad for a RHD should be  rust free ,46000 miles TJ as they all seem to range from £6k-£9k and usually with a lot more miles. We know it's not an "off roader" but a look'a'like, perhaps a good place to start though?

 

Many thanks for taking the time out to do this for me, you know who I'm gonna ask for advice from now on?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, AlexK said:

Quite a few traders have set themselves up importing TJs from Japan.  I'm sure some are fine, but equally, some are not.  It's easy for a vehicle's history to get 'lost' on the way over, so expect to find zero service history and remember to check carefully for accident damage as that's the first piece of info that goes missing.

 

There are some differences between UK and JDM spec, starting with simple things like no headlight height adjuster, to more important stuff like not having the same level of undersealing and rust prevention.  UK spec always included the stronger rear D44 axle, but I can't recall if JDM spec did too.  Remember the milometer will be in km, not miles.  You would have to declare it to your insurance company as an import and that might affect the premium.

 

Get underneath and check every inch you can for corrosion.  From the limited views available in the photos, the frame doesn't look bad at all, but check the body - top of the front wings is a favourite spot for it to start.

 

Personally, I'm not a fan of the way those flares appear to be screwed into the body along the top edge, and I'm curious what those stuck-on black strips are for - to stand on? Flares are not a structural item so I'd hope not.  I'm amazed it was given an MOT with no rear bumper and, as Vince says, no rear fog light.  To me, the body lift says it probably arrived with much larger tyres which either weren't e-marked or protruded beyond the flares and therefore were changed for a smaller (cheaper) set for the MOT.  I see it failed its first MOT for missing rear seat belts.

 

Lastly, they do appear to be asking strong money for it.  For the same price, you should be able to find a UK spec TJ with a known history without too much trouble.  There's at least one for sale on this forum.

 

Good luck!

 

You got this post in just as I hit the submit button on mine LoL

I will come back to it later, have to go out now.

Thanks

Brian

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I'm back?

 

1 hour ago, LincsLad said:

Quite a few traders have set themselves up importing TJs from Japan.  I'm sure some are fine, but equally, some are not.  It's easy for a vehicle's history to get 'lost' on the way over, so expect to find zero service history and remember to check carefully for accident damage as that's the first piece of info that goes missing.

 

Spot on, totally agree.

 

1 hour ago, LincsLad said:

There are some differences between UK and JDM spec, starting with simple things like no headlight height adjuster, to more important stuff like not having the same level of undersealing and rust prevention.  UK spec always included the stronger rear D44 axle, but I can't recall if JDM spec did too.  Remember the milometer will be in km, not miles.  You would have to declare it to your insurance company as an import and that might affect the premium.

 

 

Wouldn't have known about differences you mentioned [axle etc], rust prevention again totally agree. When I have bought Jap imports the first thing on the list is undersealing, shame having to cover up all that shiny unprotected paint! the speedo as far as I remember always had both Km and MPH? normally find a UK motor having MPH in larger text over smaller KPH [inner ring], you find the reverse on Japs with MPH smaller and on inside [less prominent if you like]. Never had one effect premium unless you go back 20 years when no one would touch them!

 

1 hour ago, LincsLad said:

Get underneath and check every inch you can for corrosion.  From the limited views available in the photos, the frame doesn't look bad at all, but check the body - top of the front wings is a favourite spot for it to start.

 

 

Usually and to me the only reason for buying these are they are rust free, dealers tend nowadays to only bring good examples in as this is a major selling point and obviously they want a return on their investment.

 

1 hour ago, LincsLad said:

Personally, I'm not a fan of the way those flares appear to be screwed into the body along the top edge, and I'm curious what those stuck-on black strips are for - to stand on? Flares are not a structural item so I'd hope not.  I'm amazed it was given an MOT with no rear bumper and, as Vince says, no rear fog light.  To me, the body lift says it probably arrived with much larger tyres which either weren't e-marked or protruded beyond the flares and therefore were changed for a smaller (cheaper) set for the MOT.  I see it failed its first MOT for missing rear seat belts.

 

Black on flares looks like grip tape suggested to me they were for standing on!  not sure if no rear bumper is an MOT fail? usually find dangerous sticky out sharp things yes but smoothed over, not sure. Rear fog lamp obviously a fail so not sure if he borrowed one? Fail on rear seat belt missing was for a middle one, I pulled the seller on this and he said he took it back and it passed as only registered as a four seater so didn't need a rear middle belt. I doubt it had bigger wheels fitted, the wheels on it are Japanese and not Chinese so no doubt bought and fitted there [not cheap either], if standard gearing I doubt you'd drive it with bigger wheels, the Japs are all about show and bling,  I very much doubt this ever left the tarmac but this of course only opinion.

1 hour ago, LincsLad said:

Lastly, they do appear to be asking strong money for it.  For the same price, you should be able to find a UK spec TJ with a known history without too much trouble.  There's at least one for sale on this forum.

 

Two months research [again ebay] shows yes for the same money I can have a UK one with 3 times the miles and possible welded chassis or at least the start of some corrosion, is that worth a little history? I do all my own servicing/repairs, is the history supplied with my vehicles worth anything? you'll have some receipts that could relate to parts for mine or a similar motor? who am I? do I have a clue? is everything I touch a bodge? I have a file to go with with my car's but only the early receipts are main dealer garage ones, I'm guessing there's a lot of folk on here do all their own work so only receipts supplied as history, if you can't see it how do you know it's fitted? History is a funny thing that everyone demands nowadays, round here we have good and bad garages, should imagine that's the same everywhere, just cause it's done in a garage is no guarantee of workmanship [another reason I do all my own work]. History doesn't really deter me, I'm 57 and can tend to spot a motor that's been looked after/cared for and one that's not. Saying that I must point out I haven't seen this one yet! it's a 300 mile round trip that I didn't want to make without having some more knowledge which is what we're discussing now?

 

Dealer's always demand top dollar, hands are tied as I'm having to part ex so not got the cash to buy privately. Have got my motor up for sale but it's a bit of a niche market and I live in the middle of nowhere!

 

Many thanks for information supplied, there are points you made that I had no knowledge of which is what I had hoped to get from this.

Cheers

Brian 

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Sorry Alex, I've quoted you from my post quoting you, if that makes any sense? should have quoted you from your post to get your name on quotes/replies.

 

Newbie mistake Aghhhhh!

 

Brian

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Not at all, makes perfect sense.

 

Been a while since I've sat in one, but from memory the JDM speedo is in MPH but the odometer is in km.

 

Definitely don't want to have had people standing on the flares, or the tops of the wings. Not unusual to find a TJ with checker-plate riveted to the wing tops - it's not a Defender, they're not designed for people to stand on, and it's usually there to cover up the rust, so that's a clear 'walk away' issue for me.

 

My personal dislike for JDM imports stems really from the possibility of people being led to believe they're buying something they're not, but as you're clearly fully clued-up on this aspect that's absolutely no problem.

 

Ebay's a bit of a bear pit for TJs.  Often worth looking at small independents - a few months back an unmolested 2002-ish TJ with ~20k on the clock popped up for about £10k.  Good ones are out there, sometimes just needs a bit of patience.  Hell, the other day I spotted one with about 130 miles on the clock.  Big money, though.  Horrible colour, too.

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Morning Alex

 

Thanks for the helpful insight and I misunderstood your milometre thingy, odometer I understand and always in kilometers. I never minded that as it was always a nice surprise converting to a much lower figure in miles?

 

I have been a Defender man a long time and I too hate all that chequer plate riveted over everything, it is just to hide the ugly ali corrosion which you can't stop. I won't even view a Landy covered in that [who drills good bodywork and rivets that on if the motors a good'un?] didn't know they did that to jeeps as well.

 

Ebay I use as a price check, it seems almost a done thing nowadays. Always the place you'll find most for sale, sometimes you get a bargain, sometimes you don't but it's the medium most use so it's always been the place to look for me. 

 

If I had cash I'd have bought this one:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-Grizzly-2003/382553271539?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 when it was listed it had a buy it now price of £8.5k if memory serves me right, for it's age it seemed to be giving a lot for the money, no doubt it had it's issue's but just seemed a good buy to me.

 

I better go do some housework ? Mrs is away and I'm here on a normal DIY holiday, supposed to be working on the house but I'm getting much more fun outa being on here nattering Jeepy stuff.

 

Catch ya later when I've done the hoovering!

 

Brian

 

 

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Brian,

 

If the Jeep has a 2" suspension lift this will be functionally adequate for 32" tyres. You could remove the body lift without affecting articulation if it starts to bug you. The body lift itself may have required modifications in other areas, gear stick, radiator, pipework, wiring. Some of these will be very minor to put back.

 

You may find the axle gearing even with 31.4" diameter tyres sluggish but it will improve gradually as the tyres wear. Losing 2 x 9mm to tyre wear is 3/4" of tyre diameter. The largest tyre size that works well with stock gearing is 30" which is 3" more than the original 27". Is the rear spare the same size and wheel design as the road wheels?

 

Revising my corrections list with the new info provided:

  • Removal of the body lift if using regularly off road
  • JKS Quicker disconnects for off road use
  • A rear bumper can prevent some damage to the lower edges of the body tub
  • A new rear fog lamp

So if you are after a street Jeep and are not bothered about the sluggish performance then only the fog lamp to replace.

 

History...

 

It is worth it, even DIY history, particularly when you are dealing with an insurance assessor for a total loss claim. I do my own work and keep a detailed history electronically in a spreadsheet that also calculates interval reminders for me. I scan all paper receipts, invoices, technical documents and photos of repairs. I also keep the paperwork in an 'album' type book that has clear plastic pages that I can stuff the paperwork inside. I refer to the histories frequently. Just recently I tracked down the manufacturer of the exhaust manifold I fitted 12 years ago to find a replacement part. They were still in business but under a different name. I couldn't find them online without information that was on my original invoice. I got an exact replacement part without having to do any modifications.

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1 hour ago, V said:

History...

 

It is worth it, even DIY history, particularly when you are dealing with an insurance assessor for a total loss claim. I do my own work and keep a detailed history electronically in a spreadsheet that also calculates interval reminders for me. I scan all paper receipts, invoices, technical documents and photos of repairs. I also keep the paperwork in an 'album' type book that has clear plastic pages that I can stuff the paperwork inside. I refer to the histories frequently. Just recently I tracked down the manufacturer of the exhaust manifold I fitted 12 years ago to find a replacement part. They were still in business but under a different name. I couldn't find them online without information that was on my original invoice. I got an exact replacement part without having to do any modifications.

 

Wow! I tend to write on the receipt for the oil mileage when changed, same with anti-freeze and brake service parts etc, so my history is generally a handful of receipts with numbers written on, not so as impressive as your's.

I have bought many vehicles in my time [drives the missus nuts] a few times sent big bucks over to the States for motors never even seen, bought from Germany, Holland, Spain. No history, heck I flew out to Dusseldorf with a carrier bag containing £8k worth of euros to meet a guy in the airport car park who didn't speak English, I didn't speak German, we just pointed at things and nodded? I guess I was more reckless then. I only really screwed up once, bought a motor without doing an HPI check, thought that was something to do with finance [I'm old], bought a motor that was a Cat D, didn't know until I tried to sell it. Fortunately it was bought at the right price and I didn't lose anything. I check now.

 

Many thanks for your revised list, I'd have to get a bumper coz it just don't look right without one? 

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45 minutes ago, Jim said:

Hi Brian and welcome to the club.

Have you had a look at our Jeeps For Sale section? Not sure if this one is still for sale -

 

Many thanks Jim, site's proving to be worth it's weight in gold☺️

 

Jeeps for sale unless a dealer who's up for part ex isn't going to help me just yet, I currently have an 4.2L F150 that's got to go to finance my new Jeep, not enough room for to many toys here which is a shame as I love my truck, just don't use it enough to justify keeping it.

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If any of you guys are watching what's more favourable in a Wrangler 2.5L or 4.0L ?

 

I don't do a lot of miles a year and currently run a 4.2L and a 4.7L so not worried just wouldn't want to get something under powered.

 

Brian

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There is only a miniscule difference in fuel economy between them. The 2.5L petrol 4 cylinder is a good engine but it's just over shadowed by the Inline 6 torque. I would be happy with either although I would always lean more towards a 4.0L

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Hi Brian,

 

I've obviously not seen it and I'm not an expert on TJs by any means ( or much else tbh LOL ) but I'd steer clear of the red lifted Jap import. It's not that cheap at £9k and looks superficially like it's had a big lift and tyres whacked on it to make it look impressive without much consideration for anything else.....which could lead to all sorts of issues. It's also the only TJ on the lot by the look of it which probably means they don't know that much about them. Just looking at ebay there are quite a few TJs that look better options, however if you are looking to get one from a dealer rather than a private sale you could look at this one if it's not too far from you:

 

Claridges Cars

Providing Excellent Service in all Aspects for over 30 Years

+441525308851

+441525308851

+441525308851

EmailEmail

Claridges Farm

Eggington

Leighton Buzzard

Bedfordshire

LU7 9PQ

 

They sell on ebay and have several on there at the moment including a nice looking one about £1500 more than the red one you're looking at. I can't personally recommend them as I have never used them myself but I have been over there for a look (when trying to get a bit of work done on the YJ) and TJs is what he does. They seem to usually have lots in, know a lot about them and prep them well, I didn't go crawling about underneath but the ones I saw all looked pretty good. He also seems to have a lot of general 4x4 knowledge and has several old 'series' landrovers in various states of restoration in the back. I always feel better buying from someone who knows what they're talking about.

 

Hope this helps.....and welcome to the club.

 

Cheers

Tim  

 

 

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2 hours ago, V said:

There is only a miniscule difference in fuel economy between them. The 2.5L petrol 4 cylinder is a good engine but it's just over shadowed by the Inline 6 torque. I would be happy with either although I would always lean more towards a 4.0L

 

Thanks V ?

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1 hour ago, TimC said:

I'd steer clear of the red lifted Jap import. It's not that cheap at £9k and looks superficially like it's had a big lift and tyres whacked on it to make it look impressive without much consideration for anything else.....which could lead to all sorts of issues. It's also the only TJ on the lot by the look of it which probably means they don't know that much about them.

 

Hi ya Tim

 

Dealer is very knowledgeable  on Jeeps [so he say's] and has brought 10 over this year, his partner also lives there and selects the vehicles to send, I have been on his web site where there are at least two more?

 

My concern which is why I mentioned it in initial post was did it look done right? not knowing Jeeps but know with defenders that lifting excessively high can lead to all sorts of problems and I'm not savvy Jeep wise to spot a good'un from a bad'un. It was the 7" lift that worried me most but I think during the course of this thread I've learned it's only really a 3" suspension lift at tops, perhaps gained another inch or so on wheels and tyres and a couple more inches on a body lift. Nothing done too extreme but as you pointed out, more for show.

 

The dealer and Jeep you mentioned I had already contacted and he wasn't up for a deal, hands are tied an nowt to be done there, I love the one on here that PTE993 [Jims post] has for sale, right sort of money but chances him wanting a part ex is remote unless he's in the trade.

 

Many thanks for taking time out to reply, much appreciated

 

Brian

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