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Project XJ


RichBris86

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So today was the day! The engine went back in. Which was easier than i thought it would be. Complete with new clutch kit. Then after 4 hours trying to figure out why it wouldnt start, i found that i hand pluged the fuel line in. Dick head.

 

But then. The magic happened. She started. And sounds sweet as a nut. Let her warm up and work the coolent round. Heater works and everything.

 

Then first test drive, with some speed up and slow down drills to help bed in the new rings. Everything bang on! She is singing!

 

So happy to get her back on the road

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thanks guys, its been interesting, and ive learnt a lot about the car as well. just need to run her in now. and think of something else to do to it. I do a lot of wild camping, so I may build a storage area in the boot to keep all my gear in there an keep it a usable tidy space.

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  • 3 months later...
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RichBris86

sooooooo.

 

its been a while since I was last on here.

 

the engine is now fully ran in, 2000 miles of taking it easy, and it runs like a dream. but now I have new problems to sort lol, typical.

 

I have now developed a rumble and clicking noise from my front hub areas, while turning, and going over 50mph, which I believe to be coming from the u-joints on each end of the axel, to be fair, I have put big tyres and spacers on it, and they are probably the original units so its not surprising really.

 

upon trying to take the spacers off to get the hubs apart, I found, mush to my annoyance, that they are now stuck on, which is a pain in the butt.

 

however, I am an engineer,

 

so..........

 

the spacer extracter is born.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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RichBris86

Right. It took me a little while to get round to doing this. But now im nice and smooth and quite going around corners again.

 

To do this, take the drive shaft out, as ive shown in a previous post, although this time i had to use my spacer extractor.

 

Once you have the drive shaft out, use a screw driver to pry out the circlips that hold the cv caps in place. Then simple bang them out with a hammer and a vice, be careful not to damage the ears of the joint. You may need to use a large socket to hit instead of the ears.

 

Then its just a case of taking it all out, and putting the new one in place. Ad the caps one at a time and make sure they go in straight. And be careful of the rollers inside the cap. Once its all assembled, add the new circlips and reassemble in the car. Repeat on the other side.

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  • 5 months later...
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wow its been a little while since i last updated this!

 

well, ive been trying to get all the bits together to sort out my steering, so ive got a new steering pump, new sensor, and a new adjustable track bar to work with my lift from llama 4x4.

 

I fitted the track bar today, as its a nice and simple to do, and its sunday, so simple is best. 

 

firstly, I slackened off all 4 nuts/bolts holding on the rail frame bracket, to remove and tension on the bar (caused be the lift kit working against the old track bar)

 

then I removed the bolt holding the track bar to the axle, and just took the whole thing off as one unit. 

 

then fitting the new one was a nice simple reverse of the removal, apart from making sure the bar was roughly the right length and sitting nice before bolting everything down nice and tight, (torque setting are 92 ftlb for frame rail bolts, and 72ftlbs for axle bolt)

 

now its all nice and shiny, ready for a wheel alignment and tracking set up at my local tyre place. 20181118_114957.thumb.jpg.5dd98285381ef7ff807faad8cc2a59b6.jpg20181118_115030.thumb.jpg.52e70753b42ea93627d0d615fc431bf1.jpg20181118_115244.thumb.jpg.1593f1374fb189a0c0083c9633baf593.jpg20181118_115303.thumb.jpg.404e912f5217fe79cb3b7ccdce74400d.jpg20181118_122252.thumb.jpg.dc8aef5153bfcf972942b7ca41d74728.jpg

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once ive don't the last little bits to the XJ, I'm looking at selling it next year to get a new toy to play around with. if your interested then feel free to let me know. 

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30 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

Who made the track bar? Looks a substantial piece!

Dave at llama4x4 makes them. And for not bad money

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On 19/11/2018 at 17:13, RichBris86 said:

Dave at llama4x4 makes them. And for not bad money

I like the bracket, two holes giving options for different lift heights?

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15 minutes ago, Fourpot said:

I like the bracket, two holes giving options for different lift heights?

Yea thats right, i think its good for up to 6 inch lift

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4 hours ago, RichBris86 said:

Yea thats right, i think its good for up to 6 inch lift

The lower position on the track bar bracket would need a matching deeper pitman arm. The 6" lift height only comes into question if the TRE on the pitman arm starts binding. it could go to 8" lift with high steer knuckles.

 

Very deep pitman arms made for LHD have the TRE joint face cranked over to favour the TRE. They don't work on RHD as they are cranked over the wrong way which binds the joint at not much more than static ride height.

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On 21/11/2018 at 23:39, V said:

The lower position on the track bar bracket would need a matching deeper pitman arm. The 6" lift height only comes into question if the TRE on the pitman arm starts binding. it could go to 8" lift with high steer knuckles.

 

Very deep pitman arms made for LHD have the TRE joint face cranked over to favour the TRE. They don't work on RHD as they are cranked over the wrong way which binds the joint at not much more than static ride height.

I got a pitman arm for a Grand Cherokee, which is  a lot deeper than the stock XJ one. But it doesn't lean one way or the other.  It's made by Chassis FX, but bought from Germany.

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On 23/11/2018 at 19:41, V said:

Have you got the drop dimensions and details of the supplier? They are very rare without the lean.

Pics of original and Grand Cherokee swap one...

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