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1998 Cherokee 4.0 Ltd - Project


Fourpot

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Finally got the steering box back on and everything connected back up. Because the broken aluminium spacer bracket was so knackered, I hadn't realised it was 'handed' so the one I got was for a LHD car... (will I ever learn?!) a tiny bit of metalwork fixed it though and now it's all back together.

So now I have got around to fitting the new Smittybilt XRC front bumper and light-bar.  Of course, the story is enhanced with a few problems as usual.

First problem was that the supplied allen-head bolts for attaching the bumper to the mounting plates are a little on the short side, so I used the ones that came with the light-bar instead which are the same size thread only longer and with hex heads. All fit now and the allen-head bolts look much neater where they are visible on top of the bumper.

The other issue is that the bumper is not quite level. Given that the mounting plates and bumper use several of the same holes and in-frame' captive nuts that the original bumper used (which was fine) and that the mounting plates all fitted up nice and square, this suggests a slight misalingment of the mounting holes in the bumper. I'll have another go to see if I can get any wiggle out of it, but the holes are all just big enough for the bolts so there is next to no play. If I can't do it, I may have to 'adjust' the bumper holes on the one side by a millimetre or two to bring that side up level.

...... and just to keep me on my toes, the bluddy starter relay has failed, so for the moment I have to start it by stabbing a piece of wire into the relay slot in the fusebox. 

Ah, what fun it all is!

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Thats a sexy looking bumper. Where have i seen one of those before :great:

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Thats a sexy looking bumper. Where have i seen one of those before :great:

 

I'm following your XJ build with great interest!  How did you find the alignment of your bumper?

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I'm following your XJ build with great interest!  How did you find the alignment of your bumper?

 

it was ok, I didn't have to cut anything, I couldn't use the bracket with the nuts welded to it because like most things from the US, its for a left hand drive car. I just used some of the longer bolts and went straight through the unibody with them. I need to do something about that though, as my AC lines are resting on one of the bolts. il probably just reproduce the bracket but for a right hand drive unit.

 

the suspension on the other hand was a pain, I just don't know how the guys in all the videos drop the front axle so much, to get my coils in I had to use spring compressors, and disconnect the brake lines to make a big enough gap.

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it was ok, I didn't have to cut anything, I couldn't use the bracket with the nuts welded to it because like most things from the US, its for a left hand drive car. I just used some of the longer bolts and went straight through the unibody with them. I need to do something about that though, as my AC lines are resting on one of the bolts. il probably just reproduce the bracket but for a right hand drive unit.

 

the suspension on the other hand was a pain, I just don't know how the guys in all the videos drop the front axle so much, to get my coils in I had to use spring compressors, and disconnect the brake lines to make a big enough gap.

I had the advantage that I'd dropped the front axle right off the car, with all the brake lines and everything else off too.  some videos do seem easier than reality but then others seem to make a right song and dance about things that I've found quite easy (I think removing the radiator, aircon cooler and tranny cooler was one)

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At some point in the future, I'll be creating some form of bespoke air intake system, which will go in the space where the windscreen wiper motor and heater/vent intake is.  To see how much room I'll have and to assist getting it in there, I cut some 'exploratory' holes..  :icon_e_surprised:

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it was ok, I didn't have to cut anything, I couldn't use the bracket with the nuts welded to it because like most things from the US, its for a left hand drive car. I just used some of the longer bolts and went straight through the unibody with them. I need to do something about that though, as my AC lines are resting on one of the bolts. il probably just reproduce the bracket but for a right hand drive unit.

 

the suspension on the other hand was a pain, I just don't know how the guys in all the videos drop the front axle so much, to get my coils in I had to use spring compressors, and disconnect the brake lines to make a big enough gap.

Do you mean the bracket with a bit of stiff wire welded to it, that you have to waggle into the chassis rail? I used the one supplied, but putting it so that the other face of it is against the inner rail wall (i.e. the nuts went against the surface and the triangle is spaced away from the rail by the nuts? sort of like putting the back of your hand against it instead of your palm)

 

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yea that's the one, I couldn't get it in to line up properly, so I got a bit pissy with it and did it my way lol. I should really go back and have another look at it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Platinum Member

Got the front seat squabs back from Martrim in Sandbach....  they smell as nice as they look!  Now to fit the seats all back together.

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Those look really smart. Good effort. Love seeing this truck come together.

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Those look really smart. Good effort. Love seeing this truck come together.

Thanks!  I like your new lights  :great:

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Got a lot done in the last few days... all the interior panels and carpets back in. Just the seats and rear/middle seat belts to go.  it was so long since i took it all out that naturally I couldn't remember exactly how it went in again. Consequently several parts went in and out a few times!

That weedy plastic bracket bracket under the centre console storage bin was broken, so I've glued it with Araldite for now. I see that steel ones can be had from the USA for quite a few dollars, but I think I'll have a go at making my own steel one at some point.

Then, at the back of the garage, I found the heater/air duct that goes under the centre console. Ah well, more practice at disassembling/assembling.. again!

Front seats are also now back together ready to go in.

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The value of regularly checking fluids and if you buy a used car, change them all!  I've done the engine oil and coolant already and the brake fluid. The power steering fluid I found to be a bit dirty too (top picture) so that was changed. Then I drained the auto transmission fluid... ugh, not before time! (old on the left, new on the right in second picture) Diffs and transfer oil are all good though.

Found that the tranny sump had no gasket, just a huge gloop of sealant that made it a real pain to get the sump off. Well, at least i know it's been changed at least once previously. New filter, gasket and fluid on/in tomorrow.

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Looking Good Glyn Keep up the good work!  :glasses:

Thanks Stewart! 

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Finally got the Waxoyling finished underneath!  (see my post from November 2016 - Rust Treatment.. Hmm)  If you're thinking of getting your Jeep done, think VERY carefully before using 'Before'n'After' in Warwickshire!  Anyway, happy with it now after using two aerosol tins of Waxoyl, to fill the gaps the 'professional' left.

It's good stuff and though it goes firm it never fully dries, so you get covered in black tar whenever you work under the car afterwards. My hair is full of it!

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Looks good and clean. I need to get mine redone in the next year or so.

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Transmission filter and sump day.  Cleaned and repainted the sump pan and fitted the filter. I had real problems with the dipstick tube, I'm sure the bottom end should just pop off the top end, but mine wouldn't budge, so I had to undo the securing bolt and wiggle the whole thing out. Even off the car, no amount of pulling, twisting or wiggling would get it to come out.  So I just worked with it attached.

 

As getting it back in was going to need more wiggling than it should, I secured the gasket to the pan with little cable ties in some of the bolt holes. This holds it in place while the  sump is offered up and the first few bolts are in place (just a few turns in, not tightened. Then I just cut the ties and pulled them out before fitting the rest of the bolts and torquing them up. One of the bolt holes had lost it's thread in the housing (aluminium) but luckily it wasn't one of the few blind holes, so I just got a longer bolt that came out above the face and put a lock nut on the top.

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Looking sweet mate. Great job on those seats. She'll be a really tidy truck when you are done. :great:

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The ABS light has been on all the time ever since I put in the lift kit, so today, as the MOT is due next month, it was time to get it sorted. Visual check of sensors showed that the one sensor at the rear was now about 3mm away from the rotor, whereas the other three were all a hairs breadth away. A bit of fiddling and it was the same as the rest. Hopefully that'll be it.

Ok, so while I'm under the car, I'll have a go at undoing the bolts and nuts that hold the transfer case cross member on because I'm going to drop it an inch (Having finally driven it with all the interior back in, it's definitely vibrating and the UJs both look and feel fine. I have the new bolts and some square section steel ready to go. Oh guess what? Yup, the two bolts just sheared off. The nuts loosened, I think, but it could be the studs are undoing, which is actually preferable. My bet is that the nuts are coming off but the studs will defy all efforts to get them out.  Ok so now it's a much bigger job and it's beer o'clock, so sod it, it'll be another day. I'll have to do all that now before I know if the ABS fix has done the trick.

I also noticed a small oil leak which seems to be the oil filter adapter/elbow thing. New seal ordered.  Just... Empty... Every.. Pocket.

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Well, good and bad today. Managed to drill out the two sheared bolts that hold up the transmission cross-member, re-tap the holes and pop in new bolts. The two studs came out happily... result!

But... there are (supposed to be) four small studs and nuts that secure the transmission mounting to the cross-member. Two of these (on the same side) had long since been sheared off and the rubber cushion was past healthy to boot.  Possibly someone in the dim and distant past had identified that the mounting needed replacing, tried to get it off, sheared two studs and decided to retreat. 

I'm wondering if the bad rubber and lop-sided securing has some of the blame for the vibration that led me to do the transfer case drop in the first place.  Anyway, I've ordered up a new transmission mounting from Jeepey, so at least it'll all be nice and tight now. Plus, I've found some more nooks and crannies to slosh full of Waxoyl.

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Sorted the transfer cased drop, and fitted the new case mounting cushion, but on tightening it all up, I've stripped the thread out of one of the holes I had re-tapped.. C- for tapping skills.  I think I'll just have to go down the route of cutting a hole in the floor to get inside the chassis rail above the nut and drop a long bolt through it. I'll do the same for the other tapped hole too, just in case that's an 'only just holding' job.

Probably should have spent a lot more on a decent tap and die set..

 

Anyway, took the truck for a gentle run around the block to check on the vibration, which seems to be cured. Happy days, the ABS light has now gone out as it should, so just moving that sensor a little, did the trick.

 

Only trouble is, I think the rear wheel bearings may be a bit grumbly  :icon_eek:

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Today was the day to do plan B on the sheared transfer case cross member bolts.  Got the front seats out and lifted the carpet. I had a sharp pointed bit of steel rod ready to poke through the cross-member holes and hit with a hammer in order to make a visible dint in the floor. this would be the place to make a hole to drop the bolts through.  However, the left side hole was the rearmost of the two holes and would have meant drilling a hole partly across the floor brace that the seats bolt to.

 

But, there is a rubber plug in the floor that gives access to inside the chassis rail and is about halfway between where the two cross-member holes are, so I pulled that up and after some serious fiddling about I managed to get a bolt in each side into the holes.  So far, so relatively easy, no cutting or drilling needed.

 

The hard bit, which I have to confess generated some proper swearing, was getting a spanner into the bung hole and onto the top of the bolt. My 17mm spanner needed to bit of a smack with a hammer to go through the bung hole and then it wasn't at a very good angle to hold the bolt. Got there eventually though and now it's all nice and secure.

 

Top tip!  If you are going to be working on your car for some time with the doors open, turn the bluddy interior lights off!  Because the whole job took me ages, I flattened the battery, which meant putting the seats back in (electric) took rather longer than it should!

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With regard  to my last post, i could of course have heated and bent a spanner so it had an angle of about 120 deg between the ring and the handle, but I'm too bloody-minded to waste a 17mm combi spanner on one task.

 

Anyway, today I have sort of refitted the plastic front wheel inner arches. I say 'sort of' because now that I have the Smittybilt XRC front bumper on, the arches no longer fit. At the moment the Jeep has no wheel arch trim, so there is nothing to hold the outer edges to the wings. I have some 'fender flares' to put on, but I'm saving that task to when I get the next set of tyres. I will then go up to 30"-31" tyres with new, bigger offset wheels. I want to get all the wear out of the current boots first. So, the outer edges have been trimmed and secured for now with fat cable ties!

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